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-   -   Kudos to Bill Hodgson! Chrysler New Yorker Headlamp Replacement (http://www.autobanter.com/showthread.php?t=8670)

Chico October 31st 04 01:14 AM

Kudos to Bill Hodgson! Chrysler New Yorker Headlamp Replacement
 
Back on February 14 2004, Bill Hodgson posted a note entitled "TIP:1994
Chrysler New Yorker Headlamp Replacement" as to how to remove the headlamp
assembly for a 1994 NYer. I have a 95 NYer and needed to replace the
driver's headlamp bulb after 173,000 miles.

I have the Haynes book and it was almost NO help. I was REALLY frustrated
and about to give up and pay someone to do it, but thanks to BILL, I was
able to get the job done.

I followed Bill's tip to pry the ball from the V-wedge on the top. Mind
you, you have to be pulling on the housing to get the ball to pop out
whilst prying the wedge away from the top ball. Also, he wasn't kidding
about RIPPING the bottom balls out. It took quite a bit of force (I thought
it would break for sure) but they finally came. To get the assembly back in
, you really need to tilt the assembly about 45 degrees with it almost on
top of the bottom studs. After they pop in, the top is really pretty easy.
BTW, you really don't need a Torx driver for this. A medium Phillips to get
off the radiator cover and medium standard (flat) blade drive to pry the
top ball out of the wedge. I could have done it all with just my
Leatherman!

I imagine this technique is the same for all 94-97 NYers and LHS.

Thanks Bill!

Chico

Chico October 31st 04 01:14 AM

Back on February 14 2004, Bill Hodgson posted a note entitled "TIP:1994
Chrysler New Yorker Headlamp Replacement" as to how to remove the headlamp
assembly for a 1994 NYer. I have a 95 NYer and needed to replace the
driver's headlamp bulb after 173,000 miles.

I have the Haynes book and it was almost NO help. I was REALLY frustrated
and about to give up and pay someone to do it, but thanks to BILL, I was
able to get the job done.

I followed Bill's tip to pry the ball from the V-wedge on the top. Mind
you, you have to be pulling on the housing to get the ball to pop out
whilst prying the wedge away from the top ball. Also, he wasn't kidding
about RIPPING the bottom balls out. It took quite a bit of force (I thought
it would break for sure) but they finally came. To get the assembly back in
, you really need to tilt the assembly about 45 degrees with it almost on
top of the bottom studs. After they pop in, the top is really pretty easy.
BTW, you really don't need a Torx driver for this. A medium Phillips to get
off the radiator cover and medium standard (flat) blade drive to pry the
top ball out of the wedge. I could have done it all with just my
Leatherman!

I imagine this technique is the same for all 94-97 NYers and LHS.

Thanks Bill!

Chico


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