idle speed control motor
 

I have a 93 dodge shadow 2.2. Lately when i start it up, it won't ilde or
when i go to put in gear it dies, but if i give it a little gas when i
start it and put in gear it won't die. Once i get going it does fine. I
had auto zone do a code check on it. According to what they found out,
it's code 26 i beleive, idle speed control motor short ciruit. they said i
needed to check with a dealership to get a new one, and i did. I was just
wondering if i could find one a little cheaper than the dealership, and if
i can, could someone please tell me where..... and also how would i have
someone replace it without having to pay the mechanic at the dealership...
any help would be greatly appreciated.... thanks

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 04:01:55 -0400, temptress2972 wrote:

> it's code 26 i beleive, idle speed control motor short ciruit. they said
> i needed to check with a dealership to get a new one, and i did. I was
> just wondering if i could find one a little cheaper than the dealership,
> and if i can, could someone please tell me where.....

I've spent the past 40 minutes retyping this and I realized I was putting
WAY too much info in, so if you want more info, just ask.

To answer your question is very easy.

In a word: Junkyards.

I know, we're talking "used" parts and "used" could really mean anything,
plus parts are sold as-is and rarely will you find a warranty on
non-working parts from an inexpensive yard, but the only parts that I have
had any trouble with from junkyards were those that were made of plastic
(especially ABS plastic) -- heat from the sun makes them brittle and they
break too easily. Usually not a problem for underhood parts, though; it's
mostly interiors. Still, for engine parts, you'll usually do fine at a
yard. Just try to look for a car that has been wrecked. That means the
car was on the road and the engine worked, otherwise, how could it have
gotten in a wreck? Even front-impact will do for throttle-body and other
intake/exhaust/fuel system parts. Just avoid ignition parts like
distributor caps and rotors, ignition coils, plug wires, etc. Those are
too inexpensive to not buy new from an auto parts store. Get your
mechanical parts from the yard though: starters (you'll want to rebuild
them, but it's *NOT* hard at all, and only costs about $4 for the
contacts), distributors, water pumps... basically anything that doesn't
have moving parts inside it, and even some that do. What's better is that
many yards will find and remove the necessary part for you, but they do
charge a fee, and I'm not sure if they get your hardware for you too or
not.

Your only other alternative is parts stores. Some stores specialize in
different makes, some specialize in riceboy ****, and others are fairly
general. I prefer Discount/Advance auto parts first, then AutoZone. When
all else fails go to Pep Boys, but you might rather just get your parts
from NAPA instead of dealing with them. Their prices aren't horrible, but
their quality is questionable and they're usually the most expensive parts
house in my area next to NAPA. NAPA is usually the most expensive here,
next to the dealer. The dealer gets their parts from NAPA here anyway, so
to buy from the dealer, you get the same thing as you get from NAPA --
just in a different box and slightly less expensive. Good luck getting
NAPA to install it, though ;-)

So, first to last, for me (assuming no junkyard option):

Advance, Autozone, NAPA, Dealer, Pep Boys.

> and also how would i have someone replace it without having to pay the
> mechanic at the dealership... any help would be greatly appreciated....
> thanks

After buying your new/used AIS motor, you'll also need some tools -- if
you don't have some, ***BUY SOME***. Try to get Craftsman (from Sears) or
Husky (from Home Depot) -- good warranties there. If you don't want to
buy some tools *AND* do your own work, then pay someone else to install
your AIS motor for you. Whether it be Pep Boys, the Dealer, or any of the
no-doubt DOZENS of auto garages in your area. Your choice: invest about
$125 to $150 in tools and some $20 to $100 for a box to put them in, or,
pay $100+ every time some little hose cracks or some little circuit
breaks. The tools you only buy once. The knowledge stays with you for
life. The experience is free. Knowing you did it yourself is priceless.

Knowing you did it yourself, it lasting for 10+ years, and being able to
pawn it off to your kids for only around $500 DIY compared to around 2 or
3 thousand dollars to have someone else always fix it.......

I could be wrong, but it's worked for me. Of course, I was fortunate
enough to inherit my grandfather's tools (my dad already had his own), but
had I not done that, they probably would have set me back about $150 or
so, including an inexpensive plastic toolbox and ratchet case. Plus, I
can do almost any repair short of an overhaul or suspension replacement
with that $150 worth of tools. Not a bad investment.


Your call. HIH. AFAIK, YMMV.

CJ

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 04:01:55 -0400, temptress2972 wrote:

> it's code 26 i beleive, idle speed control motor short ciruit. they said
> i needed to check with a dealership to get a new one, and i did. I was
> just wondering if i could find one a little cheaper than the dealership,
> and if i can, could someone please tell me where.....

I've spent the past 40 minutes retyping this and I realized I was putting
WAY too much info in, so if you want more info, just ask.

To answer your question is very easy.

In a word: Junkyards.

I know, we're talking "used" parts and "used" could really mean anything,
plus parts are sold as-is and rarely will you find a warranty on
non-working parts from an inexpensive yard, but the only parts that I have
had any trouble with from junkyards were those that were made of plastic
(especially ABS plastic) -- heat from the sun makes them brittle and they
break too easily. Usually not a problem for underhood parts, though; it's
mostly interiors. Still, for engine parts, you'll usually do fine at a
yard. Just try to look for a car that has been wrecked. That means the
car was on the road and the engine worked, otherwise, how could it have
gotten in a wreck? Even front-impact will do for throttle-body and other
intake/exhaust/fuel system parts. Just avoid ignition parts like
distributor caps and rotors, ignition coils, plug wires, etc. Those are
too inexpensive to not buy new from an auto parts store. Get your
mechanical parts from the yard though: starters (you'll want to rebuild
them, but it's *NOT* hard at all, and only costs about $4 for the
contacts), distributors, water pumps... basically anything that doesn't
have moving parts inside it, and even some that do. What's better is that
many yards will find and remove the necessary part for you, but they do
charge a fee, and I'm not sure if they get your hardware for you too or
not.

Your only other alternative is parts stores. Some stores specialize in
different makes, some specialize in riceboy ****, and others are fairly
general. I prefer Discount/Advance auto parts first, then AutoZone. When
all else fails go to Pep Boys, but you might rather just get your parts
from NAPA instead of dealing with them. Their prices aren't horrible, but
their quality is questionable and they're usually the most expensive parts
house in my area next to NAPA. NAPA is usually the most expensive here,
next to the dealer. The dealer gets their parts from NAPA here anyway, so
to buy from the dealer, you get the same thing as you get from NAPA --
just in a different box and slightly less expensive. Good luck getting
NAPA to install it, though ;-)

So, first to last, for me (assuming no junkyard option):

Advance, Autozone, NAPA, Dealer, Pep Boys.

> and also how would i have someone replace it without having to pay the
> mechanic at the dealership... any help would be greatly appreciated....
> thanks

After buying your new/used AIS motor, you'll also need some tools -- if
you don't have some, ***BUY SOME***. Try to get Craftsman (from Sears) or
Husky (from Home Depot) -- good warranties there. If you don't want to
buy some tools *AND* do your own work, then pay someone else to install
your AIS motor for you. Whether it be Pep Boys, the Dealer, or any of the
no-doubt DOZENS of auto garages in your area. Your choice: invest about
$125 to $150 in tools and some $20 to $100 for a box to put them in, or,
pay $100+ every time some little hose cracks or some little circuit
breaks. The tools you only buy once. The knowledge stays with you for
life. The experience is free. Knowing you did it yourself is priceless.

Knowing you did it yourself, it lasting for 10+ years, and being able to
pawn it off to your kids for only around $500 DIY compared to around 2 or
3 thousand dollars to have someone else always fix it.......

I could be wrong, but it's worked for me. Of course, I was fortunate
enough to inherit my grandfather's tools (my dad already had his own), but
had I not done that, they probably would have set me back about $150 or
so, including an inexpensive plastic toolbox and ratchet case. Plus, I
can do almost any repair short of an overhaul or suspension replacement
with that $150 worth of tools. Not a bad investment.


Your call. HIH. AFAIK, YMMV.

CJ

When this happened in my 1988 Aries with the 2.5, another idle motor did not
help. The indicated fault was a short circuit which was traced to a short in
the wiring harness. This was fixed with 10 cents worth of tape (and $100.00
of dealer labor).

Dan

When this happened in my 1988 Aries with the 2.5, another idle motor did not
help. The indicated fault was a short circuit which was traced to a short in
the wiring harness. This was fixed with 10 cents worth of tape (and $100.00
of dealer labor).

Dan