License Plate Light Dead, Failed Inspection - Replaced Bulbs, Nothing - Now What?
 

Went to the freakin state inspection in NJ yesterday. This is on my 90
Golf. It fails on NOTHING except the freakin rear license plate light.
For those that have had to endure a NJ auto inspection, you have not
had the pleasure.

Regardless, I replaced the bulbs, no joy. Nothing. Pulled the driver
side panel in the trunk off. Found the wire for the lights measured it
with a multimeter come from the front. So its putting out juice. So I
figure its the blasted harness in the hatch. Most likely a wire is
broken in the rubber boot going up into the hatch.

Is there anyway I can test the wires up there without ripping off the
insulation? Someone mentioned using a pin with the multimeter and
sticking it into the wire.

Anyone have any ideas?

I really dont want to pull the whole dam harness out. Have to remove
the speaker deck panel, the real seat belt, the wiper motor, etc....

Dont want to go there.

John W. wrote:
> Went to the freakin state inspection in NJ yesterday. This is on my 90
> Golf. It fails on NOTHING except the freakin rear license plate light.
> For those that have had to endure a NJ auto inspection, you have not
> had the pleasure.
>
> Regardless, I replaced the bulbs, no joy. Nothing. Pulled the driver
> side panel in the trunk off. Found the wire for the lights measured it
> with a multimeter come from the front. So its putting out juice. So I
> figure its the blasted harness in the hatch. Most likely a wire is
> broken in the rubber boot going up into the hatch.
>
> Is there anyway I can test the wires up there without ripping off the
> insulation? Someone mentioned using a pin with the multimeter and
> sticking it into the wire.
>
> Anyone have any ideas?
>
> I really dont want to pull the whole dam harness out. Have to remove
> the speaker deck panel, the real seat belt, the wiper motor, etc....
>
> Dont want to go there.

Well you could try moving the wires around to see if there could be an
intermittent failure. Most likely place for that is where it bends each time
to boot is opened.

However I am going to suggest you take a look at the other side. Check
the ground.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

> However I am going to suggest you take a look at the other side.
Check
> the ground.

What he said. Make sure you've not only got positive to the light but that
the ground is reliable.

In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, John W. wrote:

>
>Is there anyway I can test the wires up there without ripping off the
>insulation? Someone mentioned using a pin with the multimeter and
>sticking it into the wire.

The pin works, but a small needle is better. Get a small one.
Sharper and stronger than a pin.

In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, Tom's VR6 wrote:

>In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, John W. wrote:
>
>>
>>Is there anyway I can test the wires up there without ripping off the
>>insulation? Someone mentioned using a pin with the multimeter and
>>sticking it into the wire.
>
>The pin works, but a small needle is better. Get a small one.
>Sharper and stronger than a pin.

And the suggestion about checking the ground is a good one. With the
meter, check that you don't have voltage between the outer part of
the socket and a chassis ground.

In rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled, Tom's VR6 wrote:

>
>And the suggestion about checking the ground is a good one. With the
>meter, check that you don't have voltage between the outer part of
>the socket and a chassis ground.

.... with a bulb in that socket and the lights on.

I recently had to replace all 4 side marker lightbulb sockets in my 1988
Cabbie. They just refused to make good electrical contact.