Brake upgrade for towing with a 97 Explorer
 

I've been searching this group and other Explorer resources on the
Internet but I haven't found much good advice on upgrading the brakes
on my Explorer.

I have a 97 Limited, 4.0 SOHC, 4WD and I plan on pulling a trailer
cross country this summer (I'm guessing about 3,500 lbs but I'm not
sure). As far as I know most small trailers, such as UHauls, don't
have brakes so it is up to the towing vehicle to stop the trailer. I
found some Power Stop rotors at Summit Racing for $76 per front rotor,
the pads are an additional $30. Is this enough to stop an extra 2 tons
of weight? The front calipers are 2 piston calipers while the rears
are single piston. Should I sink money into high performance calipers
as well? Do I need to buy high performance rotors and pads for the
rear?

As far as the rest of the truck goes, I plan on installing a trailer
hitch, I recently flushed and filled the coolant, it has a tranny
cooler with recently flushed and filled ATF Mercon V, power steering
cooler, I'm not sure but I think the rear axle is 3.55:1. Does anyone
have any other suggestions or advice on prepping or upgrading to safely
tow a trailer?

Thanks,
Dave Earle

Why not check with U-haul? Many of their trailers have inertia type brakes.
Also, dashboard brake actuaters (also activated by inertia) are easy to
install. I think that would be much cheaper.
> wrote in message
ups.com...
> I've been searching this group and other Explorer resources on the
> Internet but I haven't found much good advice on upgrading the brakes
> on my Explorer.
>
> I have a 97 Limited, 4.0 SOHC, 4WD and I plan on pulling a trailer
> cross country this summer (I'm guessing about 3,500 lbs but I'm not
> sure). As far as I know most small trailers, such as UHauls, don't
> have brakes so it is up to the towing vehicle to stop the trailer. I
> found some Power Stop rotors at Summit Racing for $76 per front rotor,
> the pads are an additional $30. Is this enough to stop an extra 2 tons
> of weight? The front calipers are 2 piston calipers while the rears
> are single piston. Should I sink money into high performance calipers
> as well? Do I need to buy high performance rotors and pads for the
> rear?
>
> As far as the rest of the truck goes, I plan on installing a trailer
> hitch, I recently flushed and filled the coolant, it has a tranny
> cooler with recently flushed and filled ATF Mercon V, power steering
> cooler, I'm not sure but I think the rear axle is 3.55:1. Does anyone
> have any other suggestions or advice on prepping or upgrading to safely
> tow a trailer?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Earle
>

On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 00:11:38 GMT, "gcook" > wrote:

>Why not check with U-haul? Many of their trailers have inertia type brakes.
>Also, dashboard brake actuaters (also activated by inertia) are easy to
>install. I think that would be much cheaper.

Of course, there have to be brakes on the trailer for those to work.
:-)
> wrote in message
oups.com...
>> I've been searching this group and other Explorer resources on the
>> Internet but I haven't found much good advice on upgrading the brakes
>> on my Explorer.
>>
>> I have a 97 Limited, 4.0 SOHC, 4WD and I plan on pulling a trailer
>> cross country this summer (I'm guessing about 3,500 lbs but I'm not
>> sure). As far as I know most small trailers, such as UHauls, don't
>> have brakes so it is up to the towing vehicle to stop the trailer. I
>> found some Power Stop rotors at Summit Racing for $76 per front rotor,
>> the pads are an additional $30. Is this enough to stop an extra 2 tons
>> of weight? The front calipers are 2 piston calipers while the rears
>> are single piston. Should I sink money into high performance calipers
>> as well? Do I need to buy high performance rotors and pads for the
>> rear?
>>
>> As far as the rest of the truck goes, I plan on installing a trailer
>> hitch, I recently flushed and filled the coolant, it has a tranny
>> cooler with recently flushed and filled ATF Mercon V, power steering
>> cooler, I'm not sure but I think the rear axle is 3.55:1. Does anyone
>> have any other suggestions or advice on prepping or upgrading to safely
>> tow a trailer?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Dave Earle
>>
>

--
Bill Funk
Change "g" to "a"

On 6 Mar 2005 15:24:54 -0800, wrote:

>I've been searching this group and other Explorer resources on the
>Internet but I haven't found much good advice on upgrading the brakes
>on my Explorer.
>
>I have a 97 Limited, 4.0 SOHC, 4WD and I plan on pulling a trailer
>cross country this summer (I'm guessing about 3,500 lbs but I'm not
>sure). As far as I know most small trailers, such as UHauls, don't
>have brakes so it is up to the towing vehicle to stop the trailer. I
>found some Power Stop rotors at Summit Racing for $76 per front rotor,
>the pads are an additional $30. Is this enough to stop an extra 2 tons
>of weight? The front calipers are 2 piston calipers while the rears
>are single piston. Should I sink money into high performance calipers
>as well? Do I need to buy high performance rotors and pads for the
>rear?
>
>As far as the rest of the truck goes, I plan on installing a trailer
>hitch, I recently flushed and filled the coolant, it has a tranny
>cooler with recently flushed and filled ATF Mercon V, power steering
>cooler, I'm not sure but I think the rear axle is 3.55:1. Does anyone
>have any other suggestions or advice on prepping or upgrading to safely
>tow a trailer?
>
>Thanks,
>Dave Earle

I'm a freak for towing safety. So taqke this in the spirit it's
offered...
If you're going to upgrade the brakes, upgrade them as though you mean
it.
A matched system that actually increases braking over stock isn't
cheap, but it can be a life-saver. Something along the lines of a
Brembo upgrade with bigger rotor (more swept area, more braking
action, longer life, less fade) will do wonders.
If you really don't want to spend that kind of money, you could switch
to ceramic pads, for longer life, less fading.

Your Explorer will already brake hard enough to activate your
anti-lock system, so in reality, more won't do you much good, as far
as that one emergency braking maneuver is concerned. What you are
probably looking for is less fade over longer braking applications,
like going down grades. Ceramic pads should handle that nicely,
really. Just keep speeds lower where extended braking is expected, and
don't worry about the idiots who want to go faster. Remember that
downshifting (even shifting out of OD) will provide engine braking,
often (on Interstates) eliminating the need to brake at all.
Enjoy the trip!

--
Bill Funk
Change "g" to "a"

Big Bill wrote:
> On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 00:11:38 GMT, "gcook" > wrote:
>
>
>>Why not check with U-haul? Many of their trailers have inertia type brakes.
>>Also, dashboard brake actuaters (also activated by inertia) are easy to
>>install. I think that would be much cheaper.
>
>
> Of course, there have to be brakes on the trailer for those to work.
> :-)

Of course, U-haul won't rent you a trailer anyway.

Well, no. I meant for you to install one of the brake controllers that
throw out a large parachute. Check thr J.C.Worthless catalog. :>)
"Big Bill" > wrote in message
...
> On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 00:11:38 GMT, "gcook" > wrote:
>
> >Why not check with U-haul? Many of their trailers have inertia type
brakes.
> >Also, dashboard brake actuaters (also activated by inertia) are easy to
> >install. I think that would be much cheaper.
>
> Of course, there have to be brakes on the trailer for those to work.
> :-)
> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> >> I've been searching this group and other Explorer resources on the
> >> Internet but I haven't found much good advice on upgrading the brakes
> >> on my Explorer.
> >>
> >> I have a 97 Limited, 4.0 SOHC, 4WD and I plan on pulling a trailer
> >> cross country this summer (I'm guessing about 3,500 lbs but I'm not
> >> sure). As far as I know most small trailers, such as UHauls, don't
> >> have brakes so it is up to the towing vehicle to stop the trailer. I
> >> found some Power Stop rotors at Summit Racing for $76 per front rotor,
> >> the pads are an additional $30. Is this enough to stop an extra 2 tons
> >> of weight? The front calipers are 2 piston calipers while the rears
> >> are single piston. Should I sink money into high performance calipers
> >> as well? Do I need to buy high performance rotors and pads for the
> >> rear?
> >>
> >> As far as the rest of the truck goes, I plan on installing a trailer
> >> hitch, I recently flushed and filled the coolant, it has a tranny
> >> cooler with recently flushed and filled ATF Mercon V, power steering
> >> cooler, I'm not sure but I think the rear axle is 3.55:1. Does anyone
> >> have any other suggestions or advice on prepping or upgrading to safely
> >> tow a trailer?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Dave Earle
> >>
> >
>
> --
> Bill Funk
> Change "g" to "a"

I have had no problems towing an 18 ft car hauler w/ my 91 Exploder which
has the towing package & no brake upgrades.
It stops very well in tandem w/ the elec trailer brakes. Towing a loaded car
hauler up hill is another matter, as is the fuel consumption.
"Big Bill" > wrote in message
...
> On 6 Mar 2005 15:24:54 -0800, wrote:
>
> >I've been searching this group and other Explorer resources on the
> >Internet but I haven't found much good advice on upgrading the brakes
> >on my Explorer.
> >
> >I have a 97 Limited, 4.0 SOHC, 4WD and I plan on pulling a trailer
> >cross country this summer (I'm guessing about 3,500 lbs but I'm not
> >sure). As far as I know most small trailers, such as UHauls, don't
> >have brakes so it is up to the towing vehicle to stop the trailer. I
> >found some Power Stop rotors at Summit Racing for $76 per front rotor,
> >the pads are an additional $30. Is this enough to stop an extra 2 tons
> >of weight? The front calipers are 2 piston calipers while the rears
> >are single piston. Should I sink money into high performance calipers
> >as well? Do I need to buy high performance rotors and pads for the
> >rear?
> >
> >As far as the rest of the truck goes, I plan on installing a trailer
> >hitch, I recently flushed and filled the coolant, it has a tranny
> >cooler with recently flushed and filled ATF Mercon V, power steering
> >cooler, I'm not sure but I think the rear axle is 3.55:1. Does anyone
> >have any other suggestions or advice on prepping or upgrading to safely
> >tow a trailer?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Dave Earle
>
> I'm a freak for towing safety. So taqke this in the spirit it's
> offered...
> If you're going to upgrade the brakes, upgrade them as though you mean
> it.
> A matched system that actually increases braking over stock isn't
> cheap, but it can be a life-saver. Something along the lines of a
> Brembo upgrade with bigger rotor (more swept area, more braking
> action, longer life, less fade) will do wonders.
> If you really don't want to spend that kind of money, you could switch
> to ceramic pads, for longer life, less fading.
>
> Your Explorer will already brake hard enough to activate your
> anti-lock system, so in reality, more won't do you much good, as far
> as that one emergency braking maneuver is concerned. What you are
> probably looking for is less fade over longer braking applications,
> like going down grades. Ceramic pads should handle that nicely,
> really. Just keep speeds lower where extended braking is expected, and
> don't worry about the idiots who want to go faster. Remember that
> downshifting (even shifting out of OD) will provide engine braking,
> often (on Interstates) eliminating the need to brake at all.
> Enjoy the trip!
>
> --
> Bill Funk
> Change "g" to "a"