Clicking - hydraulic lifter?
 

A couple of days ago my SC2 started to make a clicking sound that changed
with engine speed, sometimes even going away. According to the factory
manual a hydraulic lifter is the culprit. I'm lost as how to find it as the
manual does not give any clear indication. Does anyone have a suggestion?
TIA

Martyn

In article >,
"Martyn Eastwood" > wrote:

> A couple of days ago my SC2 started to make a clicking sound that changed
> with engine speed, sometimes even going away. According to the factory
> manual a hydraulic lifter is the culprit. I'm lost as how to find it as the
> manual does not give any clear indication. Does anyone have a suggestion?

I found 2 by pushing firmly on each lifter while the valve was totally
closed (You'll need to bump the starter a few times). The one that's
bad feels 'squishy' or 'bouncy'. The problem is changing the bad one
out - you either have to pull the chain (ugh), or get the funky cam
pulley holder thing. What sucks is if the chain slips down any, the
tensioner 'clicks' out a notch and you can't just pull it back up.

if you can get the cam pulleys off without disturbing the chain, it's an
easy job to fix. If not - you have to pull the ^#^^%^& chain out. Have
fun :(

You can also try to clean out the flaky lifter - once removed, if you
pull the plunger on the bottom side outward, it'll just pull out of the
big part, and then you can pull the sucessive pieces out. It takes a
bit of force to pull it out, but it's doable, just be careful clamping
the thing. There's a tiny spring in there that gets hung up at times,
and it has to go back a certain way, but it's obvious when you see it.
And you can test the lifter by filling it with 3 in 1 oil or such and
trying to compress it. If it won't compress, it's good. Put it back in
with the plunger down as much as possible, and it'll sort itself out in
a few secs once you start the motor...

And remember, it's gotta be good and clean in there...

Or, you can replace it, at 38 bucks a pop...

Philip,
Thanks. I've never had to deal with these type lifters before. It
looks like it's a pain to get the pulleys off so the cam(s) can be removed.
Hopefully I got just one bad (dirty) lifter. I'll give it a try later in the
month after the hurricane threat is down a little. Living in Florida has
it's price!

Martyn
"Philip Nasadowski" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> "Martyn Eastwood" > wrote:
>
> > A couple of days ago my SC2 started to make a clicking sound that
changed
> > with engine speed, sometimes even going away. According to the factory
> > manual a hydraulic lifter is the culprit. I'm lost as how to find it as
the
> > manual does not give any clear indication. Does anyone have a
suggestion?
>
> I found 2 by pushing firmly on each lifter while the valve was totally
> closed (You'll need to bump the starter a few times). The one that's
> bad feels 'squishy' or 'bouncy'. The problem is changing the bad one
> out - you either have to pull the chain (ugh), or get the funky cam
> pulley holder thing. What sucks is if the chain slips down any, the
> tensioner 'clicks' out a notch and you can't just pull it back up.
>
> if you can get the cam pulleys off without disturbing the chain, it's an
> easy job to fix. If not - you have to pull the ^#^^%^& chain out. Have
> fun :(
>
> You can also try to clean out the flaky lifter - once removed, if you
> pull the plunger on the bottom side outward, it'll just pull out of the
> big part, and then you can pull the sucessive pieces out. It takes a
> bit of force to pull it out, but it's doable, just be careful clamping
> the thing. There's a tiny spring in there that gets hung up at times,
> and it has to go back a certain way, but it's obvious when you see it.
> And you can test the lifter by filling it with 3 in 1 oil or such and
> trying to compress it. If it won't compress, it's good. Put it back in
> with the plunger down as much as possible, and it'll sort itself out in
> a few secs once you start the motor...
>
> And remember, it's gotta be good and clean in there...
>
> Or, you can replace it, at 38 bucks a pop...
>