Cars - Floor pan replacement question

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Floor pan replacement question

Hey Group,
I'm about to completely replace the floor pans on my 76 SB Vert and would
like some pointers from some of you who have done this. I know you must take
a multitude of measurements before cutting out the old pans so that you get
the bolt holes in the right spot to fit the body. Are any of the frame
locations better to measure from than others? Are there any hints you can
give me so I don't have to do this more than once? Any web sites with pics
of the process?
Thanks in advance,
Charles

>Hey Group,
> I'm about to completely replace the floor pans on my 76 SB Vert and would
>like some pointers from some of you who have done this. I know you must take
>a multitude of measurements before cutting out the old pans so that you get
>the bolt holes in the right spot to fit the body. Are any of the frame
>locations better to measure from than others? Are there any hints you can
>give me so I don't have to do this more than once? Any web sites with pics
>of the process?
>Thanks in advance,
>Charles
>
Hey Charles
I have a restoration shop and have done this many times , and can tell you its
not very hard.
Its best for you to get the peplacement pans meant for the convertables.
Tou want to start out by removing your seats, pedal cluster and moving or
removing your brake line. then the 13mm bolts that hold the outer pans to the
bodyn just behind the support rails.
next is cutting the pan away from the tunnel leaving the back portion of the
pan that bolts the body down this section has 2 13mm bolts on each side. This
original section triangle shape is much stronger then the aftermarket metal on
the replacement pans. make sure to clean the lip of the tunnel from any small
chunks of metal.then drill 8mm holes every 5cm you can then slide the
replacement pans under the body to rest on the tunnel lips. at this time bolt
the pans back to the body to align. then weld in to place.

Hope this helps
Mario

>I thought they were identical, except without jacking points?!?
>

they are but its a pain to remove the jack points and looks better.

It saves alot of time amd drill bits.

Mario

>removing the jacking points takes ten minutes for both sides...and if you
>waste
>a bit, you are not using it correctly...

Ive done 4 sets now and the old spot weld bit about $8 is showing real wear.
and I weld and dress the holes before sending for powdercoating. I'm sure an
hour or more.

Remember Chris my worked is two inched.

Mario

"Ervin Charles" > wrote in message
...
> Hey Group,
> I'm about to completely replace the floor pans on my 76 SB Vert and
would
> like some pointers from some of you who have done this.

First, remove the body from the chassis. This will save you a lot of pain.
As Mario says, do not remove the rear cross panels on the chassis which
extend from the rear of the tunnel to the outer rear corners of the floor
pans. This is a major assist to relocating the pans. However, if yours are
somehow badly corroded, you may have to do otherwise. Anyway, with all
parts of the floor pan removed, position the new pan so that the rear-most
outer hole locates over the outer hole in the rear cross panel. The rest of
the floor pan should then just fall (or shove) into place. If you want to
be sure you are getting everything right then, before removing the old pans
measure the position of a few bolt holes. Always measure from two separate
points, low on the tunnel, to one hole (triangulation). Try to use the best
quality pans you can (73-79). Genuine VW pans are still available for your
model, I believe, though at a good price.