98 Cavalier Electrical Short... I need help please
 

Can anyone help... I have a 1998 Chevy Cavalier 2.0 sedan, which has an
electrical short in the ignition system. I have had the recall done, I
have also had it in the shop twice. The mechanics can't seem to figure
it out. The Ignition fuse keeps blowing out on me. It always seems to
happen when I am making a right hand turn, AC on and off, radio on and
off. Any ideas on where to look for the short? I have already checked
the ket part of the ignition, and the battery to the starter, but
nothing shows up as a short. Can anyone please help.

Josh

"Josh" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Can anyone help... I have a 1998 Chevy Cavalier 2.0 sedan, which has an
> electrical short in the ignition system. I have had the recall done, I
> have also had it in the shop twice. The mechanics can't seem to figure
> it out. The Ignition fuse keeps blowing out on me. It always seems to
> happen when I am making a right hand turn, AC on and off, radio on and
> off. Any ideas on where to look for the short? I have already checked
> the ket part of the ignition, and the battery to the starter, but
> nothing shows up as a short. Can anyone please help.
>
> Josh
>
Sounds as it is in the steering column itself--and is found when turning
the steering wheel. See if it still does it while making right turns--but
with the signal turned OFF. s

I have physically touched every wire in the steering column, and the
ingnition system under the hood and cannot duplicate the problem now...
any ideas??? Most likely this will happen again and at the most
inopertune time too. Is there a way to test each wire for a slight
break in it?

"Josh" > wrote in message
ups.com...
>I have physically touched every wire in the steering column, and the
> ingnition system under the hood and cannot duplicate the problem now...
> any ideas??? Most likely this will happen again and at the most
> inopertune time too. Is there a way to test each wire for a slight
> break in it?
>
Josh, this is not a cure; yet for intermittent fuse-blowing, one can
always buy and insert a circuit-breaker in place of that fuse. This way, if
(when?) it blows, it will re-set instantly. For shorts which happen only
very seldom, it is a work-around. Be careful to choose a breaker with
compatible electric properties. s

Thanks

If you put a breaker that will reset automatically in place of a fuse
you MAY be asking for a wiring meltdown.

I would put the front of the car up on jacks so that the wheels can be
turned.
Then with the ignition ON but engine OFF turn the wheel to the right
and see what happens.

Make sure there is nothing caught up on the steering linkages, brake
lines etc. .

There are no wires even close to the steering linkage, nor is there
anything rubbing on it. I also know that a breaker would cause a
meltdown. There is something else though, when the fuse blows, the car
dies. It will still crank over, but will not start. When I put a new
fuse in after the old one blows, the new one also blows as soon as I
turn the car on. Once I let the car sit there for about a half hour I
can put in a new fuse and drive for awhile until it blows again.

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> If you put a breaker that will reset automatically in place of a fuse
> you MAY be asking for a wiring meltdown.
Your point about turning the st. wheel to try & duplicate the short is
a good idea. But as long as one uses a breaker with the same current rating
as the fuse, it should be no more prone to meltdown than replacing the
fuse--just saves having to replace that fuse (in the dark?) every time it
blows. It will reset 'automatically' rather than as I 1st said
'instantly', but only after the circuit cools sufficiently to allow it.
Admitting again this is no correct cure, just a convenient work-around.
Nothing beats locating and correcting the problem. But when all else
fails...s

"Josh" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> There are no wires even close to the steering linkage, nor is there
> anything rubbing on it. I also know that a breaker would cause a
> meltdown. There is something else though, when the fuse blows, the car
> dies. It will still crank over, but will not start. When I put a new
> fuse in after the old one blows, the new one also blows as soon as I
> turn the car on. Once I let the car sit there for about a half hour I
> can put in a new fuse and drive for awhile until it blows again.
>
Josh, have you recently washed the engine/engine compartment? If so,
raise the hood & let the sun shine in all day. Blow out all clusters &
harnesses with compressed air. Check underhood wires carefully, esp. ones
running near hot surfaces, like along intake manifold, near egr valve, near
exhaust components, near carb(injector) base, even tho' they may be inside a
taped harness. Also, check wires going to/from electronic sensors. Another
possible location might be in the wiring from the fuel tank(fuel pump inside
tank?). Apparently there is a wire somewhere that hits bare metal
intermittently. HTH & good luck. s