Help with bucking 65
 

My 65 A-code 4-speed fastback has a couple of interesting problems. The car
runs well when cold but... after a few minutes to the point where it boiled
over. Also, as soon as it gets warmed up, it starts to buck. This was so bad
last time that I thought I had broken a tooth in the rear end. I left it
until the next day. When I tried it again (cold), it was OK. Some have told
me the problem may be the clutch or an oil leak onto the pressure plate. As
far as the overheating goes, I've been told it may be the water pump, a
cracked head or block, a head gasket that was installed backwards, overly
advanced timing, etc. Can anyone give me advince as to the steps to take to
diagnose these problems? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Richard

If it bucks with the clutch fully engaged, it has nothing to do with clutch.

Check both the cooling system and the Distributor... as well as the carb.

Is flooring it as opposed to gradual acceleration, the same?

Canadian Musclecars opined in :

> My 65 A-code 4-speed fastback has a couple of interesting problems. The
> car runs well when cold but... after a few minutes to the point where it
> boiled over. Also, as soon as it gets warmed up, it starts to buck. This
> was so bad last time that I thought I had broken a tooth in the rear
> end. I left it until the next day. When I tried it again (cold), it was
> OK. Some have told me the problem may be the clutch or an oil leak onto
> the pressure plate. As far as the overheating goes, I've been told it
> may be the water pump, a cracked head or block, a head gasket that was
> installed backwards, overly advanced timing, etc. Can anyone give me
> advince as to the steps to take to diagnose these problems? Any help
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Richard
>
>
>



--
- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

I'd check the ignition components... but I believe BackyardMechanic already
suggested it.

-Mike

--
A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
Cold air intake
FRPP 3.73 gears
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo)
Hi-speed fan switch
255/60R-15 rear tires
Subframe connectors
Aluminum adjustable clutch quadrant


"Canadian Musclecars" > wrote in message
...
> My 65 A-code 4-speed fastback has a couple of interesting problems. The
car
> runs well when cold but... after a few minutes to the point where it
boiled
> over. Also, as soon as it gets warmed up, it starts to buck. This was so
bad
> last time that I thought I had broken a tooth in the rear end. I left it
> until the next day. When I tried it again (cold), it was OK. Some have
told
> me the problem may be the clutch or an oil leak onto the pressure plate.
As
> far as the overheating goes, I've been told it may be the water pump, a
> cracked head or block, a head gasket that was installed backwards, overly
> advanced timing, etc. Can anyone give me advince as to the steps to take
to
> diagnose these problems? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Richard
>
>

It could be any number of things from what you descibe. Have you done
anything to it that could have caused these problems? Was it running well
before? If it were a car I just bought or a friends car I'd check the timing
and the firing order. Hopefully this is what causing it to boil over. Of
course a blown head gasket could be causing it to buck, and boil over for
that matter. When you start it cold next time leave the cap off the radiator
and observe the coolant for flow when it gets warm. Keep an eye out for
bubbles indicating a blown head gasket. About the timing, I once worked on a
car with a 351W in it. I could have sworn I put the distributer back in
correctly because the car idled fine but the engine bucked when I gave it
gas. Turns out the distributer was 180 degrees off. Never had one run after
putting the dist. in wrong so it perplexed the hell out of me until I wen't
ahead and tried reinstalling it. :) One more thing, did you install
splitfire spark plugs? They tend to break easily (internally) if you put too
much pressure on them. I also had one malfunction just driving down the
street one day. Pure crap. Check your wires, plugs, cap and rotor.


--
I'm a mechanic, not a weight lifter. The wrench is my weight. I'm sure glad
I have air tools in my garage now.
> wrote in message
om...
> I'd check the ignition components... but I believe BackyardMechanic
> already
> suggested it.
>
> -Mike
>
> --
> A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
> Cold air intake
> FRPP 3.73 gears
> Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
> Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo)
> Hi-speed fan switch
> 255/60R-15 rear tires
> Subframe connectors
> Aluminum adjustable clutch quadrant
>
>
> "Canadian Musclecars" > wrote in message
> ...
>> My 65 A-code 4-speed fastback has a couple of interesting problems. The
> car
>> runs well when cold but... after a few minutes to the point where it
> boiled
>> over. Also, as soon as it gets warmed up, it starts to buck. This was so
> bad
>> last time that I thought I had broken a tooth in the rear end. I left it
>> until the next day. When I tried it again (cold), it was OK. Some have
> told
>> me the problem may be the clutch or an oil leak onto the pressure plate.
> As
>> far as the overheating goes, I've been told it may be the water pump, a
>> cracked head or block, a head gasket that was installed backwards, overly
>> advanced timing, etc. Can anyone give me advince as to the steps to take
> to
>> diagnose these problems? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Richard
>>
>>
>
>

It could be any number of things from what you descibe. Have you done
anything to it that could have caused these problems? Was it running well
before? If it were a car I just bought or a friends car I'd check the timing
and the firing order. Hopefully this is what causing it to boil over. Of
course a blown head gasket could be causing it to buck, and boil over for
that matter. When you start it cold next time leave the cap off the radiator
and observe the coolant for flow when it gets warm. Keep an eye out for
bubbles indicating a blown head gasket. About the timing, I once worked on a
car with a 351W in it. I could have sworn I put the distributer back in
correctly because the car idled fine but the engine bucked when I gave it
gas. Turns out the distributer was 180 degrees off. Never had one run after
putting the dist. in wrong so it perplexed the hell out of me until I wen't
ahead and tried reinstalling it. :) One more thing, did you install
splitfire spark plugs? They tend to break easily (internally) if you put too
much pressure on them. I also had one malfunction just driving down the
street one day. Pure crap. Check your wires, plugs, cap and rotor.


--
I'm a mechanic, not a weight lifter. The wrench is my weight. I'm sure glad
I have air tools in my garage now.
> wrote in message
om...
> I'd check the ignition components... but I believe BackyardMechanic
> already
> suggested it.
>
> -Mike
>
> --
> A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT
> Cold air intake
> FRPP 3.73 gears
> Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
> Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo)
> Hi-speed fan switch
> 255/60R-15 rear tires
> Subframe connectors
> Aluminum adjustable clutch quadrant
>
>
> "Canadian Musclecars" > wrote in message
> ...
>> My 65 A-code 4-speed fastback has a couple of interesting problems. The
> car
>> runs well when cold but... after a few minutes to the point where it
> boiled
>> over. Also, as soon as it gets warmed up, it starts to buck. This was so
> bad
>> last time that I thought I had broken a tooth in the rear end. I left it
>> until the next day. When I tried it again (cold), it was OK. Some have
> told
>> me the problem may be the clutch or an oil leak onto the pressure plate.
> As
>> far as the overheating goes, I've been told it may be the water pump, a
>> cracked head or block, a head gasket that was installed backwards, overly
>> advanced timing, etc. Can anyone give me advince as to the steps to take
> to
>> diagnose these problems? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Richard
>>
>>
>
>

"Canadian Musclecars" > wrote in
:

> My 65 A-code 4-speed fastback has a couple of interesting
> problems. The car runs well when cold but... after a few minutes
> to the point where it boiled over. Also, as soon as it gets warmed
> up, it starts to buck. This was so bad last time that I thought I
> had broken a tooth in the rear end. I left it until the next day.
> When I tried it again (cold), it was OK. Some have told me the
> problem may be the clutch or an oil leak onto the pressure plate.
> As far as the overheating goes, I've been told it may be the water
> pump, a cracked head or block, a head gasket that was installed
> backwards, overly advanced timing, etc. Can anyone give me advince
> as to the steps to take to diagnose these problems? Any help would
> be greatly appreciated.

1964, eh? Check the vacuum advance, it will cause both the overheating
and the bucking.