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-   -   Best hitch for '01 XJ? (http://www.autobanter.com/showthread.php?t=34215)

matt borland June 1st 05 03:45 AM

Best hitch for '01 XJ?
 
I want to add a hitch to my '01 XJ, more for the
accessories I can add that utilize the receiver than
for actual towing. At most I may end up towing a
small trailer for my motorcycle. Still I figured a
class 3 would be the way to go since it's the most
popular size.

Any brands you guys would recommend based on
experience with installation and use? Any to avoid?


TIA,



-Matt- "..."



Stephen Cowell June 1st 05 04:22 AM


"matt borland" > wrote in message
.. .
> I want to add a hitch to my '01 XJ, more for the
> accessories I can add that utilize the receiver than
> for actual towing. At most I may end up towing a
> small trailer for my motorcycle. Still I figured a
> class 3 would be the way to go since it's the most
> popular size.


I deg to biffer... I see way more 2" receivers.
Unless you have a standard transmission I think the big
one is the way to go. Check your rear diff... if it's
the 8.25, and you're driving an automatic, you're
almost there, as far as full ClassV tow package.
Those cool rear trays don't look like they work
well with the small receiver.... maybe I'm wrong.

> Any brands you guys would recommend based on
> experience with installation and use? Any to avoid?


I bought the Putnam, since it was the cheapest... and
boy, is it cheap! The darn receiver rattles... they told
me "yeah, we got a load of out-of-spec square tubing...
return it to us for a replacement". Guess how much
to ship a big piece of steel like that? I don't even
want to know... I don't pull trailers often enough
to worry about it too much. Just annoying...
Reese is a much better brand, and more expensive
too. The fit to the (unibody) frame was great,
but the finish on the Putnam was pitiful... ever
seen powder coat over weld splatter? And the
safety chain holes... look like something I would
do with my cutting torch in my garage.

That said, I'd go with the 5000 pound 2 inch one...
is that Class V? Your vehicle will do that, in
a pinch... you're supposed to use synthetic 140wt
in the rear diff and add a transmission cooler, all
good stuff (and all stuff I did). I wouldn't even
bother with the smaller hitch unless you have
a manual transmission, or maybe not even then...
those rear trays look useful, even though you
can't open the rear door with one full of stuff.

I was able to bolt mine on, no problems with fit...
it cost a little over $100 for the hitch. You have to
get the wiring kit... get the one that plugs into the
jack dangling inside the rear area side panel,
near the gas filler neck. Take the little black
brick, cable tie it to the internal
brace back there and run the wires out one of
the body plugs, silicone around the slit you
cut in the plug and you're done.
__
Steve
..



Robb S via CarKB.com June 1st 05 04:54 AM

I was under the impression that the class 3 hitch did have a 2" receiver.
Am I wrong? He may have class 5 mechanicals, but I don't believe the
manual recomends towing that much.....could be wrong though.....been there
before
--
Robb


Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

Stephen Cowell June 1st 05 05:13 AM


"Robb S via CarKB.com" > wrote in message
...
> I was under the impression that the class 3 hitch did have a 2" receiver.
> Am I wrong? He may have class 5 mechanicals, but I don't believe the
> manual recomends towing that much.....could be wrong though.....been there
> before


yeah... my bad. ClassIII is #5000 weight-distributing,
#3000 normal. I have a ClassIII hitch... that's as big
as the manual says to go... *with* tow package mods.
__
Steve
..



Carl Saiyed June 1st 05 05:29 AM

I have a 2" draw-tite on the front of my XJ. Very pleased, easy to install,
complete, good directions.

Check he
http://www.etrailer.com/products.asp...e=Jeep&t1=&h=e

HTH

Carl


"matt borland" > wrote in message
.. .
> I want to add a hitch to my '01 XJ, more for the
> accessories I can add that utilize the receiver than
> for actual towing. At most I may end up towing a
> small trailer for my motorcycle. Still I figured a
> class 3 would be the way to go since it's the most
> popular size.
>
> Any brands you guys would recommend based on
> experience with installation and use? Any to avoid?
>
>
> TIA,
>
>
>
> -Matt- "..."
>
>




Jo Bo June 1st 05 11:23 AM

Do a search for "hidden hitch". That's what's going on my "new" 99 and you
also might need the left "stiffner" or nut strip. Look up into the holes and
see if they are threaded, if so you already have it. The later models come
with the right side already on. These are dealer items and the rear bumper
must be taken off to put them/it on.

JoBo

"matt borland" > wrote in message
.. .
>I want to add a hitch to my '01 XJ, more for the
> accessories I can add that utilize the receiver than
> for actual towing. At most I may end up towing a
> small trailer for my motorcycle. Still I figured a
> class 3 would be the way to go since it's the most
> popular size.
>
> Any brands you guys would recommend based on
> experience with installation and use? Any to avoid?
>
>
> TIA,
>
>
>
> -Matt- "..."
>
>




Clap Trap June 1st 05 11:37 AM

You can do it without the nut strip and without removing the rear
bumper. I did it on my '99 without removing anything and without paying
the dealer an outrageous price for that silly nut strip. Don't have
time to explain now - gotta go to work. But, if anyone is interested,
I'll post the details this afternoon.

Jo Bo wrote:
> Do a search for "hidden hitch". That's what's going on my "new" 99 and you
> also might need the left "stiffner" or nut strip. Look up into the holes and
> see if they are threaded, if so you already have it. The later models come
> with the right side already on. These are dealer items and the rear bumper
> must be taken off to put them/it on.
>
> JoBo
>
> "matt borland" > wrote in message
> .. .
>
>>I want to add a hitch to my '01 XJ, more for the
>>accessories I can add that utilize the receiver than
>>for actual towing. At most I may end up towing a
>>small trailer for my motorcycle. Still I figured a
>>class 3 would be the way to go since it's the most
>>popular size.
>>
>>Any brands you guys would recommend based on
>>experience with installation and use? Any to avoid?
>>
>>
>>TIA,
>>
>>
>>
>>-Matt- "..."
>>
>>

>
>
>


matt borland June 2nd 05 11:00 PM


"Clap Trap" > wrote in message
...
> You can do it without the nut strip and without removing the rear
> bumper. I did it on my '99 without removing anything and without paying
> the dealer an outrageous price for that silly nut strip. Don't have
> time to explain now - gotta go to work. But, if anyone is interested,
> I'll post the details this afternoon.



I'm interested!


Thanks to everyone who replied so far!



-Matt- "..."



Stephen Cowell June 3rd 05 04:51 AM


"matt borland" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Clap Trap" > wrote in message
> ...
> > You can do it without the nut strip and without removing the rear
> > bumper. I did it on my '99 without removing anything and without paying
> > the dealer an outrageous price for that silly nut strip. Don't have
> > time to explain now - gotta go to work. But, if anyone is interested,
> > I'll post the details this afternoon.

>
>
> I'm interested!


My hitch (the cheesy Putnam) came with a spring
steel wire that grabs the bolts... made fishing
them very easy. No bumper to remove, etc.
You could get the same effect from a piece
of baling wire and some electrical tape.
__
Steve
..



Clap Trap June 3rd 05 10:56 PM

DISCLAIMER: This is for informational purposes only. I am describing
what I did with mine, not telling you what to do with yours. You must
judge for yourself if you think this is safe for your situation.

I don't recall what size the bolts are that hold the hitch in place. I
think they are something like 3/8-24. You can take one out from the
side that already has the nut strip in to use it as a guide.

Once you know what size that bolt is, go to your friendly neighborhood
fastener shop - a real bolt shop, not autozone or o'reilly or any such
chain. Ask them to get you some Grade 8 (minimum) set screws that are
the same size as the bolt used on the nut strip side. These will be
something like:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...PMPXNO=4524167

You need to get them at least a couple inches long. For each set screw,
you also need two nuts, two flat washers, and two lock washers.

Also be sure to get some fresh grade 8 bolts/washers for the nut strip
side while you're there.

Take one of the nuts, apply some loc-tite, and put the nut on the end of
the set screw without the allen head, leaving at least two or three
threads protruding through the nut. Set the assembly aside and let the
loc-tite dry.

Once all your set screw/nut assemblies are dry, put a lockwasher, then a
flat washer on them (lockwasher goes next to the nut). Use a little bit
of scotch tape to hold the washers in place for the next step.

Using a fishwire or some sort of grabber tool, insert a set
screw/nut/washer assembly into the frame rail and fish it into position.
Once in position, just let it hang there while you fish in the rest.
This is not as hard as it seems. If I remember correctly, there is a
slot in the frame rail that will let the assembly fit through. But, you
will have to do them in the right order or subsequent fishes will
dislodge the ones you've already put in place.

Once you have them all fished into place, get a buddy (or use a jack) to
help you lift the hitch into place so that you can position it without
dislodging your set screw assemblies. Install and hand tighten a bolt
or two on the side with the nut strip to hold the hitch in place while
you work on the set screw side. (Actually, only screw them in a few
turns, it will help to leave the hitch very loose while you are working
with the set screw side).

Now, position the hitch in place (without dislodging your set screws)
and for each of the set screw assemblies, simply put on a flat washer,
lock washer, and nut, and hand tighten. Put any remaining bolts in on
the other side and hand tighten.

Once everything is hand tight, just go back around and tool tighten
everything. By using the set screw assemblies, you can hold the 'bolt'
and tighten it from the same side - thus eliminating the need for a nut
strip.

Mine has been on this way for 4 years or so with no trouble.

If I seem to have left something out, let me know - it's been years
since I did this - my memory may be dull.

matt borland wrote:
> "Clap Trap" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>>You can do it without the nut strip and without removing the rear
>>bumper. I did it on my '99 without removing anything and without paying
>>the dealer an outrageous price for that silly nut strip. Don't have
>>time to explain now - gotta go to work. But, if anyone is interested,
>>I'll post the details this afternoon.

>
>
>
> I'm interested!
>
>
> Thanks to everyone who replied so far!
>
>
>
> -Matt- "..."
>
>



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