Help needed with 63 Bus
 

Have a 63 Bus (Caravelle Camper)in the garage. At one time it was my daily
driver. I have what was supposedly a rebuilt 1600 DP (traded for it) that I
can not get to stop leaking oil at the rear main seal. I've tried several
seals with no luck. This whole ordeal has just about sapped my aircooled VW
energy. I've never had a problem getting a rear seal in - drove nothing but
air-cooled VWs for 20 years. Any ideas?
Andy

Busman wrote:

> Have a 63 Bus (Caravelle Camper)in the garage. At one time it was my daily
> driver. I have what was supposedly a rebuilt 1600 DP (traded for it) that I
> can not get to stop leaking oil at the rear main seal. I've tried several
> seals with no luck. This whole ordeal has just about sapped my aircooled VW
> energy. I've never had a problem getting a rear seal in - drove nothing but
> air-cooled VWs for 20 years. Any ideas?
> Andy
>
>
As noted, definitely check the endplay. You can do it without removal;
just pry and push on the crank pulley and eyeball the movement.
The max allowed is .006" which is just barely visible. Much over that
and you have a problem.

BTW, the '63 was 6V. What was done to accomodate the 1600 engine?
Put a 6V flywheel on it? That's OK as long as it is sealed properly.

Let us know what the play is and go from there.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Jim,
Bus is still 6V and originally came with a 1500 SP - cool deal as it also
got the bigger brakes like a 64. It all worked just fine when I was driving
it (Texas winters are usually pretty tame). Will have to go out and check
the end play later tonight or tomorrow. I have been told that I may have a
cracked block but I'm not so sure. Will let you know what I find. Thanks,
Andy

"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
...
> Busman wrote:
>
>> Have a 63 Bus (Caravelle Camper)in the garage. At one time it was my
>> daily driver. I have what was supposedly a rebuilt 1600 DP (traded for
>> it) that I can not get to stop leaking oil at the rear main seal. I've
>> tried several seals with no luck. This whole ordeal has just about sapped
>> my aircooled VW energy. I've never had a problem getting a rear seal in -
>> drove nothing but air-cooled VWs for 20 years. Any ideas?
>> Andy
>>
>>
> As noted, definitely check the endplay. You can do it without removal;
> just pry and push on the crank pulley and eyeball the movement.
> The max allowed is .006" which is just barely visible. Much over that
> and you have a problem.
>
> BTW, the '63 was 6V. What was done to accomodate the 1600 engine?
> Put a 6V flywheel on it? That's OK as long as it is sealed properly.
>
> Let us know what the play is and go from there.
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Checking end play and have not seen any cracks. Thanks,
Andy

"Braukuche" > wrote in message
...
>> Any ideas?
>>Andy
>
> Have you checked the end play? Looked for cracks?
> --Dan E

> Checking end play and have not seen any cracks. Thanks,
> Andy
>


Andy,

I had a mysterious oil leak in Clayton (70 type 1). I suspected the
oil cooler as the oil mess was from the top of the engine. I pulled the
engine, re-filled the oil, removed the plugs. I have the back plate off
the transmission of a 70 bus, that I use to mount a starter on a pulled
engine. After about a minute of cranking, I found a small leak on the
case near the oil cooler mount. The crack was too small to be seen, but
cranking built up enough pressure to see a drop every five seconds.
Needless to say I have another engine in the bug.... That's thanks to
Dan who gave me a 71 vert in pretty good condition, including two
engines, one seized, the other a "basic engine".

Mike.

70 bug (Clayton) daily driver
71 vert (Dan) soon to be backup daily
70 bus (Luigi) wrecked, parts doner/storehouse.
today, 3/4 of my upright engines are operational.