Cars - just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

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just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

Picked the little dude up today. Mechanically tight (new engine, trans
mounts, tons of new parts) and runs great. Handles like a go-kart. I got
lucky with this one as it has what looks to be the original paint, no
rust (well, except for one or 2 small places on the driver door and a
couple where it got scratched) and a perfect underpan. It's a color code
21E (looking though the net) "blood orange", and was equipped with
factory air conditioning. Someone removed the part under the dash and the
compressor is gone. All the lines and condensor/fan are still present.
Wheels and hubcaps are striaght and present.

The bad? It needs some TLC. It needs some brake work (bad master cylinder
or leak somewhere - ask me how I found out driving it home), a new
headliner, putting the fresh air box back (removed to put a tach and oil
temp/pressure gauges + new fuel sender). It needs the right front fender
either replaced or fixed - the headlight bucket is pushed back. The rear
defrost is broken (clips are snapped off). I have what appears to be a
bad fuel line (gas smell in trunk, looks like vent hose may be bad). Plus
the headlights and running lights work off a toggle switch. Not cool.

Is the welting(? - the parts between the fenders) supposed to be black or
body color? I know the rear engine cover was replaced as it's white
underneath (you'd think they would at least paint that too).

It'll be restored and driven over the next 4 years until my daughter is
old enough to drive - plus she is going to help restore it. It's what she
wanted (an orange Bug) and I couldn't pass up on a deal - especially for
a great running, solid car.

just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

So.. How did you find out about the brakes on the way home??

Fweem.

--
David A. Tosi
Facilities Manager
Habitat Re-Store
3826 High Point Road
Greensboro, NC 27407

Also an antique VW nut!
"Barnhart Pinball" > wrote in message
...
> Picked the little dude up today. Mechanically tight (new engine, trans
> mounts, tons of new parts) and runs great. Handles like a go-kart. I got
> lucky with this one as it has what looks to be the original paint, no
> rust (well, except for one or 2 small places on the driver door and a
> couple where it got scratched) and a perfect underpan. It's a color code
> 21E (looking though the net) "blood orange", and was equipped with
> factory air conditioning. Someone removed the part under the dash and the
> compressor is gone. All the lines and condensor/fan are still present.
> Wheels and hubcaps are striaght and present.
>
> The bad? It needs some TLC. It needs some brake work (bad master cylinder
> or leak somewhere - ask me how I found out driving it home), a new
> headliner, putting the fresh air box back (removed to put a tach and oil
> temp/pressure gauges + new fuel sender). It needs the right front fender
> either replaced or fixed - the headlight bucket is pushed back. The rear
> defrost is broken (clips are snapped off). I have what appears to be a
> bad fuel line (gas smell in trunk, looks like vent hose may be bad). Plus
> the headlights and running lights work off a toggle switch. Not cool.
>
> Is the welting(? - the parts between the fenders) supposed to be black or
> body color? I know the rear engine cover was replaced as it's white
> underneath (you'd think they would at least paint that too).
>
> It'll be restored and driven over the next 4 years until my daughter is
> old enough to drive - plus she is going to help restore it. It's what she
> wanted (an orange Bug) and I couldn't pass up on a deal - especially for
> a great running, solid car.

just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

Barnhart Pinball wrote:
> Picked the little dude up today. Mechanically tight (new engine, trans
> mounts, tons of new parts) and runs great. Handles like a go-kart. I got
> lucky with this one as it has what looks to be the original paint, no
> rust (well, except for one or 2 small places on the driver door and a
> couple where it got scratched) and a perfect underpan. It's a color code
> 21E (looking though the net) "blood orange", and was equipped with
> factory air conditioning. Someone removed the part under the dash and the
> compressor is gone. All the lines and condensor/fan are still present.
> Wheels and hubcaps are striaght and present.
>
> The bad? It needs some TLC. It needs some brake work (bad master cylinder
> or leak somewhere - ask me how I found out driving it home), a new
> headliner, putting the fresh air box back (removed to put a tach and oil
> temp/pressure gauges + new fuel sender). It needs the right front fender
> either replaced or fixed - the headlight bucket is pushed back. The rear
> defrost is broken (clips are snapped off). I have what appears to be a
> bad fuel line (gas smell in trunk, looks like vent hose may be bad). Plus
> the headlights and running lights work off a toggle switch. Not cool.
>
> Is the welting(? - the parts between the fenders) supposed to be black or
> body color? I know the rear engine cover was replaced as it's white
> underneath (you'd think they would at least paint that too).
>
> It'll be restored and driven over the next 4 years until my daughter is
> old enough to drive - plus she is going to help restore it. It's what she
> wanted (an orange Bug) and I couldn't pass up on a deal - especially for
> a great running, solid car.

Congrats - sounds like a nice score.

If your MC is leaking, do clean up after it as brake fluid is very
corrosive - it will eventually cause nasty rot.
The bug I got must have had a bad MC and it did a job on the napoleon
hat (that large brace that the MC bolts to), the frame head bottom
plate and floor. To repair/replace those pieces is serious surgery.

About the fender rubber/gasket (not sure what the name is): mine was
black. The bug was originally baby blue. Not sure about this, but I
think they are all black.

Remco

just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

Very fun... buy the John Mur "how to keep my bug alive" book, it is a
really fun read for both daughter and dad.
Paul

Barnhart Pinball wrote:
> Picked the little dude up today. Mechanically tight (new engine, trans
> mounts, tons of new parts) and runs great. Handles like a go-kart. I got
> lucky with this one as it has what looks to be the original paint, no
> rust (well, except for one or 2 small places on the driver door and a
> couple where it got scratched) and a perfect underpan. It's a color code
> 21E (looking though the net) "blood orange", and was equipped with
> factory air conditioning. Someone removed the part under the dash and the
> compressor is gone. All the lines and condensor/fan are still present.
> Wheels and hubcaps are striaght and present.
>
> The bad? It needs some TLC. It needs some brake work (bad master cylinder
> or leak somewhere - ask me how I found out driving it home), a new
> headliner, putting the fresh air box back (removed to put a tach and oil
> temp/pressure gauges + new fuel sender). It needs the right front fender
> either replaced or fixed - the headlight bucket is pushed back. The rear
> defrost is broken (clips are snapped off). I have what appears to be a
> bad fuel line (gas smell in trunk, looks like vent hose may be bad). Plus
> the headlights and running lights work off a toggle switch. Not cool.
>
> Is the welting(? - the parts between the fenders) supposed to be black or
> body color? I know the rear engine cover was replaced as it's white
> underneath (you'd think they would at least paint that too).
>
> It'll be restored and driven over the next 4 years until my daughter is
> old enough to drive - plus she is going to help restore it. It's what she
> wanted (an orange Bug) and I couldn't pass up on a deal - especially for
> a great running, solid car.

just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

I once owned a Super Beetle.. now my Super Beetle was an Autostick, and
rotted.. so the horror stories are much more than usual.. Like the
front end almost falling out on the way home.. the Wheel falling off
while then being towed, and causing a wreck.. Taking my girlfriend for
a ride and the ball joint busting.. dragging down the road.. etc..

So here's what I suggest.

If you drive, and at 40MPH feel shimmy in the steering.. Then you have
the Super Beetle blues, and will need to look into the Tie Rods, Ends,
Balljoints, etc.. or.. you may end up like I did. I highly reccomend to
replace the ball joints just for fun, and maybe new tie rod ends, if
the tie rods look ok.

As for brakes.. Mine was the same.. It is hard to find brake lines at a
local store. I would reccomend not replacing just the master cylinder..
this is an old vehicle. The wheel cylinders are only about $20 or less
each. A must. I changed the shoes too. You will most likely find if you
do not also change the wheel clyinders, that the bleeder valves will
most likely be clogged anyways or snap off. Unless it had recent brake
work, inwich the master cylinder was simply overlooked. However, since
your daughter may be driving, you may want to do a front disc brake
conversion. The brakes are not all that good to begin with. I have all
around disc brakes on my new bug, and it stops on a dime.

Welting color is no major deal for a daily driver. Most amateur paint
jobs paint right over them. Matching color to vehicle. You may wonder
why?? Unless you have serious plans on redoing the vehicle to full
extent, I wouldn't bother. Sometimes the fender bolts rust, and will
snap off.. etc.. or pieces of the vehicle snap off while trying to
loosen the fender for changing the welting. May open a can of beans.
Again, mine was a beast!!! Maybe I am wrong with saying that. My new
bug has 100% new bolts on every fender, so I know it would be ok to
loosen them. My welting will be black.. only because it will be painted
with fenders off. Then the fenders painted seperately. If yours are
black, consider it a bonus!! That means that the fenders were removed
without much issue and reinstalled.

All in all, sounds like you got a great deal. Especially with the A/C
components. Compressors used are on Thesamba.com for no more than $50.
>From my personal opinion, it is becoming very hard to find solid Bugs
these days. Before you dump a ton of money, make sure the heater
channels are solid. Make sure where the door pillars meet the floor,
that they are solid to the floor. I would personally pull up the carpet
edge near the doors to inspect the heater channels. These are very
important.

Regardless of any situation, you will have alot of fun!!! I started in
the VW's nearly 6 years ago.. from horror stories.. and still at it
now. No longer a horror story. Every single day, I think about a VW. I
proposed in my 1960 Bug. When I went to purchase it, the family
snickered that a wedding was more important. I bought it. Went to Kayes
Jewellers, and proposed in it on Christmas Eve. Heck, I even bought one
of those new Beetles for my girlfriend just the other week. Going to
buy a 70 Bug to restore this weekend too.

Now sit back.. relax..
Go to Youtube.com and search for "Bug Drag Racing" videos.

My 1960 is on their.. not drag racing though.. I wish.. Acting drag
racing with a stock 1600cc engine.

Barnhart Pinball wrote:
> Picked the little dude up today. Mechanically tight (new engine, trans
> mounts, tons of new parts) and runs great. Handles like a go-kart. I got
> lucky with this one as it has what looks to be the original paint, no
> rust (well, except for one or 2 small places on the driver door and a
> couple where it got scratched) and a perfect underpan. It's a color code
> 21E (looking though the net) "blood orange", and was equipped with
> factory air conditioning. Someone removed the part under the dash and the
> compressor is gone. All the lines and condensor/fan are still present.
> Wheels and hubcaps are striaght and present.
>
> The bad? It needs some TLC. It needs some brake work (bad master cylinder
> or leak somewhere - ask me how I found out driving it home), a new
> headliner, putting the fresh air box back (removed to put a tach and oil
> temp/pressure gauges + new fuel sender). It needs the right front fender
> either replaced or fixed - the headlight bucket is pushed back. The rear
> defrost is broken (clips are snapped off). I have what appears to be a
> bad fuel line (gas smell in trunk, looks like vent hose may be bad). Plus
> the headlights and running lights work off a toggle switch. Not cool.
>
> Is the welting(? - the parts between the fenders) supposed to be black or
> body color? I know the rear engine cover was replaced as it's white
> underneath (you'd think they would at least paint that too).
>
> It'll be restored and driven over the next 4 years until my daughter is
> old enough to drive - plus she is going to help restore it. It's what she
> wanted (an orange Bug) and I couldn't pass up on a deal - especially for
> a great running, solid car.

just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

"Remco" > wrote in
oups.com:

>>
> Congrats - sounds like a nice score.
>
> If your MC is leaking, do clean up after it as brake fluid is very
> corrosive - it will eventually cause nasty rot.
> The bug I got must have had a bad MC and it did a job on the napoleon
> hat (that large brace that the MC bolts to), the frame head bottom
> plate and floor. To repair/replace those pieces is serious surgery.
>

Where is the master cylinder located and how do I get to it?

just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

"Dave Tosi" > wrote in news:ZPDGg.3732$n%.990
@tornado.southeast.rr.com:

> So.. How did you find out about the brakes on the way home??
>
> Fweem.
>
>

Funny you should ask. I picked it up and was driving it home - pulled up to
the stop sign out of the previous owner's subdivision - brakes were fine.
This was way back a hilly, curvy road - so the brakes got a workout. I pull
into this little town - come up to the 4-way intersection (red light) and
the pedal goes right to the floor - no resistance! Luckily the speed limit
in this town was 20mph and I was already gearing down for the stop. Just
about 100 ft from the Blazer wating to go, the light went green - he went
and I turned onto the highway I needed...my wife was following, but I
decided I better not tell her or she'd panic - I've driven a couple cars
where the brakes failed - luckily all were stick shift. Took it easy going
home and parked it right in the driveway - it would stop at less than 5mph.

just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

On Wed, 23 Aug 2006 02:59:50 +0000, Barnhart Pinball wrote:

> Where is the master cylinder located and how do I get to it?

I saw you ask this twice and not get a reply. Lot's of info in the other
posts. I'm just now getting back to r.a.m.v.a. and usually just lurk.

Look at the brake pedal.

Now, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right.

Get out of the car and look throght the fender well at the spot where your
foot would be if you shoved the brake pedal all the way therough the floor.

There's the master cylinder.

Easiest way to do brake work up front is to put the whole front up on
stands and remove both wheels. You can pretty much see the whole system
from underneath.

If you're REALLY replacing everything brake related and you can have the
car off the road a couple of days -- pull the fuel tank out. You can
actually reach all the components up front through the hole without having
to crawl around under a car that's on jackstands.

G2

--

use a net to email me

just bought my (and my daughter's) first bug, a 72 Super Beetle!

gvl2 wrote:
> On Wed, 23 Aug 2006 02:59:50 +0000, Barnhart Pinball wrote:
>
>

>
> G2
>
> --
>
CIP1 has a great disc brake set up, I have installed a few on my
customers cars. It takes me about an hour and the differance is worth
every cent. I try to convince all my customers to do the
conversion...it would save on a lot of front apron replacements...lol

Mario
Vintage Werks resto