engine temp.
 

ive got a 71 std. beetle 1600 dp manual trans.
im having a problem with the rubber isolator going into the dist.
melting.
i've determined that its melting from the outside(wires are not blackish,
still look like new copper)
it seems to be cooling ok, or at least the fan is blowing strong.
im wondering if the thermostat could have anything to do with this or if
maybe carb. adjustment or timing could be the cause
the car runs great untill the rubber melts and the wire inside grounds out
stopping spark.
it has a bosch coil, the dist. is original except for points and cond. the
rest of the ignition system is aftermarket.
thanks in advance for any replies
matt

engine temp.
 

187 wrote:

> ive got a 71 std. beetle 1600 dp manual trans.
> im having a problem with the rubber isolator going into the dist.
> melting.
> i've determined that its melting from the outside(wires are not blackish,
> still look like new copper)
> it seems to be cooling ok, or at least the fan is blowing strong.
> im wondering if the thermostat could have anything to do with this or if
> maybe carb. adjustment or timing could be the cause
> the car runs great untill the rubber melts and the wire inside grounds out
> stopping spark.
> it has a bosch coil, the dist. is original except for points and cond. the
> rest of the ignition system is aftermarket.
> thanks in advance for any replies
> matt
>
>

"...rubber isolator going into the dist...."

Is this the high tension lead from the Coil to the Distributor Cap?

Or is it the small blob of rubber which protects the Green
wires that go to the condensor and points?

If it's the blob, melting would be a sign that the engine case
is hot since the distrib casting is directly in contact thermally
with the case.

First step would be to find out exactly how hot the engine
really is. A good indicator is the oil temp. There are plenty
of engine oil temp gauges on the market for VW's.
Another choice is to pick up a kitchen meat thermometer with a
probe long enough to reach down the dipstick hole to the oil level.
You're no longer limited to the old mechanical thermometers;
there are myriad electronic ones available with digital readouts
and even with remote (radio) indicators.
To get some idea of what is new, go to eBay and search for:
"Taylor Digital Thermometer"

Back to the oil temp. A Beetle should run below ~ 105C
at legal freeway speeds on a hot summer day/
And the Ignition parts should be able to withstand that.

Do the temp measurement. Then you'll know where to go next.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

engine temp.
 

thanks jim.
it is the blob where the green wires go in.
i tried the digital thermometer in the dipstick hole, but the probe was
about an inch to short, but i tried a test run anyway, and after driving
for awhile the temp had gotten up to 223C. and the rubber had started
melting again.
i did remove the thermostat before i did the test run. and when i removed
it i felt the air-flow with the rod up and down, and it is stronger with
the rod in its normal position(up)
any ideas on what i can do to get the temperature down?
thanks again!
matt

engine temp.
 

I am assuming you are referring to the rubber insulation that protects the
the wire from chafing on the dizzy body. My guess is that the heat source
is not the engine, but the wire itself. Remove the dist cap. Rotate the
engine until the points close. Turn on the ignition and check the wire. Is
it getting hot? If it is getting unreasonably hot, chances are your ballast
resitor/coil is the culprit. Changed coils lately?


"187" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> ive got a 71 std. beetle 1600 dp manual trans.
> im having a problem with the rubber isolator going into the dist.
> melting.
> i've determined that its melting from the outside(wires are not blackish,
> still look like new copper)
> it seems to be cooling ok, or at least the fan is blowing strong.
> im wondering if the thermostat could have anything to do with this or if
> maybe carb. adjustment or timing could be the cause
> the car runs great untill the rubber melts and the wire inside grounds out
> stopping spark.
> it has a bosch coil, the dist. is original except for points and cond. the
> rest of the ignition system is aftermarket.
> thanks in advance for any replies
> matt
>
>

engine temp.
 

Brasso wrote:
> I am assuming you are referring to the rubber insulation that protects the
> the wire from chafing on the dizzy body. My guess is that the heat source
> is not the engine, but the wire itself. Remove the dist cap. Rotate the
> engine until the points close. Turn on the ignition and check the wire. Is
> it getting hot? If it is getting unreasonably hot, chances are your ballast
> resitor/coil is the culprit. Changed coils lately?
>

Brasso has a fair point. The stock Bosch coil
has an internal ballast. Some replacement coils need an external
ballast or they will overheat.
So, if the coil is original, it shouldn't overheat.

Jim

>
> "187" > wrote in message
> lkaboutautos.com...
>
>>ive got a 71 std. beetle 1600 dp manual trans.
>>im having a problem with the rubber isolator going into the dist.
>>melting.
>>i've determined that its melting from the outside(wires are not blackish,
>>still look like new copper)
>>it seems to be cooling ok, or at least the fan is blowing strong.
>>im wondering if the thermostat could have anything to do with this or if
>>maybe carb. adjustment or timing could be the cause
>>the car runs great untill the rubber melts and the wire inside grounds out
>>stopping spark.
>>it has a bosch coil, the dist. is original except for points and cond. the
>>rest of the ignition system is aftermarket.
>>thanks in advance for any replies
>>matt
>>
>>
>
>
>

engine temp.
 

it has a stock coil on it, so im thinking more on engine temperature. in my
original post i stated the temp. was 223C, i meant 123c or about 255F. i
also have an oil leak thats coming from somewhere on the top of the case.
im thinking that the leak could be the oil cooler or its seals. could this
have anything to do with it?
thanks for the help.
matt

engine temp.
 

187 wrote:
> it has a stock coil on it, so im thinking more on engine temperature. in my
> original post i stated the temp. was 223C, i meant 123c or about 255F. i
> also have an oil leak thats coming from somewhere on the top of the case.
> im thinking that the leak could be the oil cooler or its seals. could this
> have anything to do with it?
> thanks for the help.
> matt
>

123C is waaaaay too hot for a Beetle.
Something majorly wrong with cooling.

You have the thermostat rod all the way up. Good.

The rod is attached to the flaps on the right side,
and then thru a bar linkage, behind the fan, to the
flaps on the left side. See if that linkage is hooked up
and working.

Mice could have built nests inside the cyl fins.
Does happen.

The oil cooler could be blocked (rare).

Fan blades could be clogged with debris. Feel inside the fan.

Speedy Jim

engine temp.
 

i have recently had the engine out for a clutch job, and i had the fan
housing off to claen everthing up since i had the engine out anyway.
everything in the fan housing was hooked up and moving.
during the cleaning i did clean out all the gunk from between the fins. i
even removed the cooler and flushed it with solvent, then blew it out with
air.
with the engine running i have got under the car and pulled on the rod,
and it does decrease air flow, but with it up it blows real strong, and
all the tins are in place.
could air-fuel ratio do this, i know a lean engine runs hotter?
thanks alot
matt

engine temp.
 

187 wrote:

> i have recently had the engine out for a clutch job, and i had the fan
> housing off to claen everthing up since i had the engine out anyway.
> everything in the fan housing was hooked up and moving.
> during the cleaning i did clean out all the gunk from between the fins. i
> even removed the cooler and flushed it with solvent, then blew it out with
> air.
> with the engine running i have got under the car and pulled on the rod,
> and it does decrease air flow, but with it up it blows real strong, and
> all the tins are in place.
> could air-fuel ratio do this, i know a lean engine runs hotter?
> thanks alot
> matt
>
>

I really doubt that it is a mixture problem.
The temps are so far out of range that something
more serious must be going on (I think).

Is the engine tight? Can you turn it by hand
(both when cold and when hot)?

Jim

engine temp.
 

i can turn it by hand both when hot and cold
when i had the engine out i re-painted the tins and the fan housing(just
the outside of all parts) could this have adverse effects? and is there a
way i can check the oil cooler?
thanks again for all the help!
matt

engine temp.
 

187 wrote:

> i can turn it by hand both when hot and cold
> when i had the engine out i re-painted the tins and the fan housing(just
> the outside of all parts) could this have adverse effects? and is there a
> way i can check the oil cooler?
> thanks again for all the help!
> matt
>

Paint won't matter.
Is it possible that some part of the cooling tin got
re-assembled wrong so as to block flow? Don't see
how it's possible but......

Only way I know to check the cooler is to remove and
blow thru it (air).

Relief valve stuck? Directing oil flow away from cooler?

Jim

engine temp.
 

i don't think that the tins are on wrong, as far as i can tell, but this is
my first bug, so there may be some parts missing that i don't know are
supposed to be there. everything on the engine is covered except for a
square hole on each side at the bottom-rear, what looks like a place for
the air to go once it passes over the engine. i dont have any unused bolt
holes though.
when i has the oil cooler off i cleaned it out with solvent, then blew it
out with air, and it wasn't restricted. i'm not sure where the relief
valve is, or how to check it.
thanks
matt

engine temp.
 

187 wrote:

> i don't think that the tins are on wrong, as far as i can tell, but this is
> my first bug, so there may be some parts missing that i don't know are
> supposed to be there. everything on the engine is covered except for a
> square hole on each side at the bottom-rear, what looks like a place for
> the air to go once it passes over the engine. i dont have any unused bolt
> holes though.
> when i has the oil cooler off i cleaned it out with solvent, then blew it
> out with air, and it wasn't restricted. i'm not sure where the relief
> valve is, or how to check it.
> thanks
> matt
>
>

There are 2 valves. They are under the engine, behind big screws.
The one toward the rear of the car controls flow past the oil cooler.
A spring pushes the plunger to the top of the valve bore.
If its plunger were stuck in the bore, oil could bypass the cooler.
That doesn't happen often, but it's one way the cooler wouldn't work.

I have to say that at this point you really should get a shop manual.
You can find them on eBay or at Amazon.com . Bentley has the nice
one, or maybe Haynes.

Jim

engine temp.
 

Thanks jim, I'll go ahead and get a book, then I'll check the valve, and
hopefully I will come back with good news!

matt

engine temp.
 

An oil temp of 255F, though high, just isn't indicative of an overall case
temp that would be high enough to melt the plastic insulator on your dizzy.
There is plenty of other high-heat plastic used on that engine that would
also be melting down.
You mentioned that the wire going through the insulator, "looked like new
copper". Does that wire have insulation on it? If not, it should. And if
not, where did it go?
The way it sounds to me, the insulator melted and you went looking for a
problem. Although high oil temp was found, and may be a contributor, I
suspect that oil temp has been high for some time. Long before your dizzy
meltdown. Bottom line: you appear to have two (2) distinctly different
problems. Solve them seperately.

A few things to consider. You wouldn't happen to have a power-pulley
installed on that engine? Did you reinstall all of the tin, and in the
correct configuration? Oil level up to snuff? Have you checked the oil
pressure? Have you tried a different temp gauge?

Brasso

"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
.com...
> 187 wrote:
>
>> i have recently had the engine out for a clutch job, and i had the fan
>> housing off to claen everthing up since i had the engine out anyway.
>> everything in the fan housing was hooked up and moving.
>> during the cleaning i did clean out all the gunk from between the fins.
>> i
>> even removed the cooler and flushed it with solvent, then blew it out
>> with
>> air.
>> with the engine running i have got under the car and pulled on the rod,
>> and it does decrease air flow, but with it up it blows real strong, and
>> all the tins are in place.
>> could air-fuel ratio do this, i know a lean engine runs hotter?
>> thanks alot matt
>>
>>
>
> I really doubt that it is a mixture problem.
> The temps are so far out of range that something
> more serious must be going on (I think).
>
> Is the engine tight? Can you turn it by hand
> (both when cold and when hot)?
>
> Jim

engine temp.
 

well, first the wire.
when the rubber started melting, which was a couple weeks after i put the
clutch in , i thought it was melting from inside the wire, and started
changing ignition parts.
first the points and condenser, still melted.
so i changed the coil, still melted.
so i put a ballast in place, still nothing, so i put the old coil, with
the resistor in place, still nothing. so i took the resistor off.
i have had to put 4 condensers in within the last 400 or so miles, because
of the melting and the crimped part of the connecter grounding out on the
body of the distributor.
so i stripped back the wires of one of the old condensers and looked at
the wires and they look fine, no signs of heat internally.
i dont have a power pulley, right now everything on this engine is stock,
except i have an electric fuel pump on it, which gets its ground from the
generator housing, and power from the coil +
im pretty sure all the tins are correct. or at least they all went back
on, and i dont have anything left over.
there are what look like holes made the by vw to let the air out, but
thats all that isnt covered.
the oil level is fine, i did recently replace the oil pressure switch, and
the light works fine now. but thats the only pressure test done.
as for the gauges, on this last test run i started out with an analog
gauge that went up to 220F and it got up to whatever back around to 20F
would be, so i stopped at wal-mart and bought a digital meat thermometer,
and thats where i got my readings from.
what should the pressure run, and will a manual gauge work for this test,
seeing the plastic oil line woulg be so long?
thanks again for the help
matt

engine temp.
 

187 wrote:

> well, first the wire.
> when the rubber started melting, which was a couple weeks after i put the
> clutch in , i thought it was melting from inside the wire, and started
> changing ignition parts.
> first the points and condenser, still melted.
> so i changed the coil, still melted.
> so i put a ballast in place, still nothing, so i put the old coil, with
> the resistor in place, still nothing. so i took the resistor off.
> i have had to put 4 condensers in within the last 400 or so miles, because
> of the melting and the crimped part of the connecter grounding out on the
> body of the distributor.
> so i stripped back the wires of one of the old condensers and looked at
> the wires and they look fine, no signs of heat internally.
> i dont have a power pulley, right now everything on this engine is stock,
> except i have an electric fuel pump on it, which gets its ground from the
> generator housing, and power from the coil +
> im pretty sure all the tins are correct. or at least they all went back
> on, and i dont have anything left over.
> there are what look like holes made the by vw to let the air out, but
> thats all that isnt covered.
> the oil level is fine, i did recently replace the oil pressure switch, and
> the light works fine now. but thats the only pressure test done.
> as for the gauges, on this last test run i started out with an analog
> gauge that went up to 220F and it got up to whatever back around to 20F
> would be, so i stopped at wal-mart and bought a digital meat thermometer,
> and thats where i got my readings from.
> what should the pressure run, and will a manual gauge work for this test,
> seeing the plastic oil line woulg be so long?
> thanks again for the help
> matt
>
>
>
QUOTE: "what look like holes made the by vw to let the air out"

Whoa! Are these "holes" in the fan housing and
approx 1.5" diam each?

If so, they are supposed to have hoses connected to the
heater (heat exchanger) inlets.

Cover them over (duct tape) for now.

Yes, you can use a mechanical pressure gauge.
At highway running speed, you should get about 30 psi when hot.
At idle, it will drop to just a few psi.

Jim

engine temp.
 

the holes i am talking about are under the engine. there is one at the
left, and one at the right side. so the air is kinda directed toward the
muffler.
the hoses for the heat exchangers are in place, should i remove them and
cover the holes?
thanks again
matt

engine temp.
 

187 wrote:
> the holes i am talking about are under the engine. there is one at the
> left, and one at the right side. so the air is kinda directed toward the
> muffler.
> the hoses for the heat exchangers are in place, should i remove them and
> cover the holes?
> thanks again
> matt
>

Ah. Now I see. The holes at the bottom are correct.

As long as the heat exch hoses are connected up that's OK too.
I was hoping we had found a reason for overheating :-(

Jim

engine temp.
 

i with it would have been that easy.
i haven't had a chance to check the oil pressure, or take the valves out
yet, i had to work late today.
but i did get me a haynes manual today, and hopefully that will help me
some.
i have been racking my brains about what i could have done while i had the
engine out that would have caused this, and something hit me.
when i put the distributor back, it went in smooth, until the rotor shaft
locked in, then i had to tap it the rest of the way down.
could the shaft be in some sort of bind now, causing enough friction to
cause the distributor body to get hot enough to melt the rubber?
if not, got any ideas of what i could have done wrong?
thanks again
matt

engine temp.
 

> when i put the distributor back, it went in smooth, until the rotor shaft
> locked in, then i had to tap it the rest of the way down.
> could the shaft be in some sort of bind now, causing enough friction to
> cause the distributor body to get hot enough to melt the rubber?

187 - Now you know what you gotta do...pull that dizzy out and check the
shaft. What does the shaft oil seal look like? Does the shaft appear to be
scored? Can you get that meat thermometer onto the base of the dist. while
it's running and get a good reading? If you have a backup distributer, try
the backup. Solve that hot dizzy problem, then go to work on the engine/oil
temp problem. Good luck.



"187" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
>i with it would have been that easy.
> i haven't had a chance to check the oil pressure, or take the valves out
> yet, i had to work late today.
> but i did get me a haynes manual today, and hopefully that will help me
> some.
> i have been racking my brains about what i could have done while i had the
> engine out that would have caused this, and something hit me.
> when i put the distributor back, it went in smooth, until the rotor shaft
> locked in, then i had to tap it the rest of the way down.
> could the shaft be in some sort of bind now, causing enough friction to
> cause the distributor body to get hot enough to melt the rubber?
> if not, got any ideas of what i could have done wrong?
> thanks again
> matt
>

engine temp.
 

well, i had a chance to pull out the oil pressure relief valve, and the oil
control valve, the had a few scratches on them, but not to bad, but i did
go ahead and smooth them back up with some 1200 grit sandpaper, then i
installed a mechanical oil pressure guage.
when hot it has about 10psi at idle, and 35 or so when i speed the engine
up. so im thinking thats fine.
im gonna pull the dizzy tomorrow and see what that looks like, hopefully i
will find the problem then.
thanks alot.
matt

engine temp.
 

i pulled the dizzy, and found that the oil hole won't line up with the
window in the case, unless i turn the dizzy to the left untill the vac.
can hits the fuel pump.
is there something i'm missing, or do i have the wrong dizzy for my
engine?
thanks
matt

engine temp.
 

ive looked at the the gear, with everything lined up as the book shows, and
it is what looks like 1 tooth off clockwise, so i got me a drive puller,
and got my drive lined back up properly.

but that didnt help!
it did get my distributor turned closer to my fuel pump, but it still
wasnt far enough, i did try 1 tooth left of straight up, and that was too
far , so i put it back like the book called for.
but regardless of where the rotor is pointing, there is no way i can turn
the distributor and make the oil hole line up with the oil window in the
case, unless i take the fuel pump , and its studs out.
i do know that the #'s on the car, engine, and distributor all match, so i
know it aint the wrong distributor.
and as for the distributor drive turning when i had the motor out for the
clutch job, it couldnt have, i didnt take the flange below the fuel pump
out when the motor was out, so the drive was misaligned when i got the
car.
while i was checking the shaft and all, i replaced the seals for the oil
cooler, and rechecked for obstruction, and there was none., the flaps in
the fan housing were all fine, facing down, nothing on top of cylinders.
i did get rid of the electric fuel pump, so that is out of the picture.
even ran a ground wire from the condensor to the bolt at the bottom of the
carb.
after i did all this, i went for a test drive.
i went out about 12 miles, and it had gotten up to 210F
i was thinking everything was fine, so i turned around and headed home,
when i got here, she cut off on me. i looked, and the darn rubber had
melted again. i wiggled it to break the ground connection, and she fired
right back up.
the temp had gotten up to whatever back around to 40F on a analog
themometer going up to 220F would be.
someone please help!
thanks
matt

engine temp.
 

"187" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> ive looked at the the gear, with everything lined up as the book shows,
and
> it is what looks like 1 tooth off clockwise, so i got me a drive puller,
> and got my drive lined back up properly.
>
> but that didnt help!
> it did get my distributor turned closer to my fuel pump, but it still
> wasnt far enough, i did try 1 tooth left of straight up, and that was too
> far , so i put it back like the book called for.
> but regardless of where the rotor is pointing, there is no way i can turn
> the distributor and make the oil hole line up with the oil window in the
> case, unless i take the fuel pump , and its studs out.
> i do know that the #'s on the car, engine, and distributor all match, so i
> know it aint the wrong distributor.
> and as for the distributor drive turning when i had the motor out for the
> clutch job, it couldnt have, i didnt take the flange below the fuel pump
> out when the motor was out, so the drive was misaligned when i got the
> car.
> while i was checking the shaft and all, i replaced the seals for the oil
> cooler, and rechecked for obstruction, and there was none., the flaps in
> the fan housing were all fine, facing down, nothing on top of cylinders.
> i did get rid of the electric fuel pump, so that is out of the picture.
> even ran a ground wire from the condensor to the bolt at the bottom of the
> carb.
> after i did all this, i went for a test drive.
> i went out about 12 miles, and it had gotten up to 210F
> i was thinking everything was fine, so i turned around and headed home,
> when i got here, she cut off on me. i looked, and the darn rubber had
> melted again. i wiggled it to break the ground connection, and she fired
> right back up.
> the temp had gotten up to whatever back around to 40F on a analog
> themometer going up to 220F would be.
> someone please help!
> thanks
> matt
>

Matt,

I believe Bob may be incorrect, with relation to the position of the hole.
I have sent Bob some information for discussion, I have yet to receive his
reply.

You say the flaps are "facing down", but are they opening?
With regards to the "darn rubber" melting. Is it really rubber?
All the distributers I have, use a "themoplastic" as the insulator for the
wires.

Grahame
from Australia

engine temp.
 

187 wrote:

> ive looked at the the gear, with everything lined up as the book shows, and
> it is what looks like 1 tooth off clockwise, so i got me a drive puller,
> and got my drive lined back up properly.
>
> but that didnt help!
> it did get my distributor turned closer to my fuel pump, but it still
> wasnt far enough, i did try 1 tooth left of straight up, and that was too
> far , so i put it back like the book called for.
> but regardless of where the rotor is pointing, there is no way i can turn
> the distributor and make the oil hole line up with the oil window in the
> case, unless i take the fuel pump , and its studs out.
> i do know that the #'s on the car, engine, and distributor all match, so i
> know it aint the wrong distributor.
> and as for the distributor drive turning when i had the motor out for the
> clutch job, it couldnt have, i didnt take the flange below the fuel pump
> out when the motor was out, so the drive was misaligned when i got the
> car.
> while i was checking the shaft and all, i replaced the seals for the oil
> cooler, and rechecked for obstruction, and there was none., the flaps in
> the fan housing were all fine, facing down, nothing on top of cylinders.
> i did get rid of the electric fuel pump, so that is out of the picture.
> even ran a ground wire from the condensor to the bolt at the bottom of the
> carb.
> after i did all this, i went for a test drive.
> i went out about 12 miles, and it had gotten up to 210F
> i was thinking everything was fine, so i turned around and headed home,
> when i got here, she cut off on me. i looked, and the darn rubber had
> melted again. i wiggled it to break the ground connection, and she fired
> right back up.
> the temp had gotten up to whatever back around to 40F on a analog
> themometer going up to 220F would be.
> someone please help!
> thanks
> matt
>

QUOTE: "i went out about 12 miles, and it had gotten up to 210F"

If accurate, this is way out of line on a Type 1.

I think this whole distributor oiling issue has become a red herring
and distraction from whatever is causing the high engine temps.

Not being there for a "hands on", I don't have any more suggestions
beyond what you have already checked (thoroughly, I might add).

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

engine temp.
 

"Grahame Rumballe" wrote in message ...

> I believe Bob may be incorrect, with relation to the position of the hole.

Are you referring to the fact that the "window" in the case appears to open
onto the area where the drive dog meets the housing, rather than the oil
hole? The vertical groove would then carry the oil from this area to the
hole. This would mean that it does not matter where the oil hole was
facing, as it is generally not facing the window, as far as I can see.

engine temp.
 

could the seal between the engine and the rear apron (right above the
muffler) be causing this?
during the clutch job, most of the seal at the rear of the engine
compartment got broken off.
the sides are still in place.
im wondering if air that passes over the engine is being brought back up
through that hole, and just blowing hotter, and hotter air over the
engine. just a thought.
matt

engine temp.
 

Matt, you would'nt be the same Matt that used to visit this group
several years ago as a very young troll? If you are, you have matured
and have a much better manner and again are playing the best in our
group like a piano. Congrats if you are. Of course the dist is very
hot as are most other parts of a hot engine.

engine temp.
 

nope, not the same matt, just a guy with a hot bug, thats driving him
CRAZY!

engine temp.
 

"187" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> could the seal between the engine and the rear apron (right above the
> muffler) be causing this?
> during the clutch job, most of the seal at the rear of the engine
> compartment got broken off.
> the sides are still in place.
> im wondering if air that passes over the engine is being brought back up
> through that hole, and just blowing hotter, and hotter air over the
> engine. just a thought.
> matt
>

any missing tinware or rubber seals can cause an engine to overheat...those
issues need to be addressed first....you are running too hot and heating up
too fast....this could ruin your engine pretty quickly...

engine temp.
 

do you think taking my engine lid off and driving it would let me know if
the seal is all of my problem?
thanks
matt

engine temp.
 

"187" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> do you think taking my engine lid off and driving it would let me know if
> the seal is all of my problem?
> thanks
> matt
>

according to some well known names in the vw industry, taking the decklid
off increases the chances of the turbulent air at the rear of the vehicle
making its way back into the engine compartment....not sure if it would help
you or not....but one thing i am sure of, the engine compartment seals are
cheap and relatively easy to install...if yours are that bad(that they are
falling apart) you need to replace them....reguardless of if you "suspect"
them to be the problem or not....can you take some pictures of your
engine/compartment/tinware and post them on a site somewhere? Pictures would
really help alot...

engine temp.
 

i dont have a way to get pictures on here, wish i could though.
but i can tell you that everything is covered, but the space at the rear
where the seal is broken