Question about Brakes / Master Cylinder
96 Chevrolet C1500 PU 2 wheel drive power brakes, front disc, rear
drum. Hi All! My truck evidently had a caliper get stuck and it quickly wore down the inner brake pad on one wheel. The master cylinder fluid was down to the bottom of the reservoir, so I wondered if I might have gotten some air into it. Anyway, I have replaced the front calipers and pads, and used the gravity method to bleed all four wheels. I inspected the back shoes and wheel cylinders and they are OK. Now I have good brakes again, but the pedal travels half the distance to the floor before the brakes begin to kick in. I think it should have about an inch of travel :-). So, my question is, if air DID get into the master cylinder, would it have travelled to the wheels and now be eliminated by the wheel bleeding, or should I actually bleed it now as part of my brake job? I checked the master cylinder and it is dry (not externally leaking), it doesn't bleed down under pressure, and the system is not losing fluid, so I think the MC is OK. Thanks, Libby |
Shouldnt the master cylinder be full? maybe thats your problem. or am I
misunderstanding? |
duh. I get it. Dry as in the outside of the MC.
Sounds like a rebleed is needed to me and that you correct that air got in. |
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I don't have a helper so tell me more about this one man bleeding kit.
All I could find was a plastic Mity-Vac for $30.00. They also had a kit that included a hose and a bottle to catch the fluid, but you would still need a pedal pumper or some way to push / suck the air bubbles out. I looked at O'Reilly's and Auto Zone. Steve B. wrote: > On 14 Dec 2004 06:02:57 -0800, wrote: > > >So, my question is, if air DID get into the master cylinder, would it > >have travelled to the wheels and now be eliminated by the wheel > >bleeding, or should I actually bleed it now as part of my brake job? I > >checked the master cylinder and it is dry (not externally leaking), it > >doesn't bleed down under pressure, and the system is not losing fluid, > >so I think the MC is OK. > > > Gravity bleed often times isn't good enough to get the bubbles out. > Bleed the brakes the regular way and make sure the back ones are > adjusted correctly. > > If you dont have a helper you can get a one man bleeding kit for > around $5 at the parts store. > > Steve B. |
"Libby Chantel" wrote > I don't have a helper so tell me more about this one man bleeding kit. > All I could find was a plastic Mity-Vac for $30.00. They also had a kit > that included a hose and a bottle to catch the fluid, but you would > still need a pedal pumper or some way to push / suck the air bubbles > out. I looked at O'Reilly's and Auto Zone. The second one sounds like it. Just a hose that clamps onto the brake bleeder screw, the other end in the jar. A check valve at the jar end keeps air from going back up the hose. Attach the hose, open the bleeder screw a bit, and start pumping. After a few strokes, or 5, or 6... tighten the bleeder, pop off the hose, and you're done (or move to the next wheel). Don't forget to check and top-up the master cylinder while you're doing this, otherwise you'll suck in more air, and have to start all over again. |
Do I need to bleed the MC first or will any air that is in it get
pushed out to the wheels? It is full of fluid. |
On 16 Dec 2004 06:04:18 -0800, "Libby Chantel"
> wrote: >Do I need to bleed the MC first or will any air that is in it get >pushed out to the wheels? It is full of fluid. Some ABS vehicles have special bleeding procedures if you get air in the master cylinder. I don't know if yours does or not. If I were doing this I would probably do a thourough bleed of the four corners and see what you get. Steve B. |
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