engine temp.
ive got a 71 std. beetle 1600 dp manual trans.
im having a problem with the rubber isolator going into the dist. melting. i've determined that its melting from the outside(wires are not blackish, still look like new copper) it seems to be cooling ok, or at least the fan is blowing strong. im wondering if the thermostat could have anything to do with this or if maybe carb. adjustment or timing could be the cause the car runs great untill the rubber melts and the wire inside grounds out stopping spark. it has a bosch coil, the dist. is original except for points and cond. the rest of the ignition system is aftermarket. thanks in advance for any replies matt |
engine temp.
187 wrote:
> ive got a 71 std. beetle 1600 dp manual trans. > im having a problem with the rubber isolator going into the dist. > melting. > i've determined that its melting from the outside(wires are not blackish, > still look like new copper) > it seems to be cooling ok, or at least the fan is blowing strong. > im wondering if the thermostat could have anything to do with this or if > maybe carb. adjustment or timing could be the cause > the car runs great untill the rubber melts and the wire inside grounds out > stopping spark. > it has a bosch coil, the dist. is original except for points and cond. the > rest of the ignition system is aftermarket. > thanks in advance for any replies > matt > > "...rubber isolator going into the dist...." Is this the high tension lead from the Coil to the Distributor Cap? Or is it the small blob of rubber which protects the Green wires that go to the condensor and points? If it's the blob, melting would be a sign that the engine case is hot since the distrib casting is directly in contact thermally with the case. First step would be to find out exactly how hot the engine really is. A good indicator is the oil temp. There are plenty of engine oil temp gauges on the market for VW's. Another choice is to pick up a kitchen meat thermometer with a probe long enough to reach down the dipstick hole to the oil level. You're no longer limited to the old mechanical thermometers; there are myriad electronic ones available with digital readouts and even with remote (radio) indicators. To get some idea of what is new, go to eBay and search for: "Taylor Digital Thermometer" Back to the oil temp. A Beetle should run below ~ 105C at legal freeway speeds on a hot summer day/ And the Ignition parts should be able to withstand that. Do the temp measurement. Then you'll know where to go next. Speedy Jim http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/ |
engine temp.
thanks jim.
it is the blob where the green wires go in. i tried the digital thermometer in the dipstick hole, but the probe was about an inch to short, but i tried a test run anyway, and after driving for awhile the temp had gotten up to 223C. and the rubber had started melting again. i did remove the thermostat before i did the test run. and when i removed it i felt the air-flow with the rod up and down, and it is stronger with the rod in its normal position(up) any ideas on what i can do to get the temperature down? thanks again! matt |
engine temp.
I am assuming you are referring to the rubber insulation that protects the
the wire from chafing on the dizzy body. My guess is that the heat source is not the engine, but the wire itself. Remove the dist cap. Rotate the engine until the points close. Turn on the ignition and check the wire. Is it getting hot? If it is getting unreasonably hot, chances are your ballast resitor/coil is the culprit. Changed coils lately? "187" > wrote in message lkaboutautos.com... > ive got a 71 std. beetle 1600 dp manual trans. > im having a problem with the rubber isolator going into the dist. > melting. > i've determined that its melting from the outside(wires are not blackish, > still look like new copper) > it seems to be cooling ok, or at least the fan is blowing strong. > im wondering if the thermostat could have anything to do with this or if > maybe carb. adjustment or timing could be the cause > the car runs great untill the rubber melts and the wire inside grounds out > stopping spark. > it has a bosch coil, the dist. is original except for points and cond. the > rest of the ignition system is aftermarket. > thanks in advance for any replies > matt > > |
engine temp.
Brasso wrote:
> I am assuming you are referring to the rubber insulation that protects the > the wire from chafing on the dizzy body. My guess is that the heat source > is not the engine, but the wire itself. Remove the dist cap. Rotate the > engine until the points close. Turn on the ignition and check the wire. Is > it getting hot? If it is getting unreasonably hot, chances are your ballast > resitor/coil is the culprit. Changed coils lately? > Brasso has a fair point. The stock Bosch coil has an internal ballast. Some replacement coils need an external ballast or they will overheat. So, if the coil is original, it shouldn't overheat. Jim > > "187" > wrote in message > lkaboutautos.com... > >>ive got a 71 std. beetle 1600 dp manual trans. >>im having a problem with the rubber isolator going into the dist. >>melting. >>i've determined that its melting from the outside(wires are not blackish, >>still look like new copper) >>it seems to be cooling ok, or at least the fan is blowing strong. >>im wondering if the thermostat could have anything to do with this or if >>maybe carb. adjustment or timing could be the cause >>the car runs great untill the rubber melts and the wire inside grounds out >>stopping spark. >>it has a bosch coil, the dist. is original except for points and cond. the >>rest of the ignition system is aftermarket. >>thanks in advance for any replies >>matt >> >> > > > |
engine temp.
it has a stock coil on it, so im thinking more on engine temperature. in my
original post i stated the temp. was 223C, i meant 123c or about 255F. i also have an oil leak thats coming from somewhere on the top of the case. im thinking that the leak could be the oil cooler or its seals. could this have anything to do with it? thanks for the help. matt |
engine temp.
187 wrote:
> it has a stock coil on it, so im thinking more on engine temperature. in my > original post i stated the temp. was 223C, i meant 123c or about 255F. i > also have an oil leak thats coming from somewhere on the top of the case. > im thinking that the leak could be the oil cooler or its seals. could this > have anything to do with it? > thanks for the help. > matt > 123C is waaaaay too hot for a Beetle. Something majorly wrong with cooling. You have the thermostat rod all the way up. Good. The rod is attached to the flaps on the right side, and then thru a bar linkage, behind the fan, to the flaps on the left side. See if that linkage is hooked up and working. Mice could have built nests inside the cyl fins. Does happen. The oil cooler could be blocked (rare). Fan blades could be clogged with debris. Feel inside the fan. Speedy Jim |
engine temp.
i have recently had the engine out for a clutch job, and i had the fan
housing off to claen everthing up since i had the engine out anyway. everything in the fan housing was hooked up and moving. during the cleaning i did clean out all the gunk from between the fins. i even removed the cooler and flushed it with solvent, then blew it out with air. with the engine running i have got under the car and pulled on the rod, and it does decrease air flow, but with it up it blows real strong, and all the tins are in place. could air-fuel ratio do this, i know a lean engine runs hotter? thanks alot matt |
engine temp.
187 wrote:
> i have recently had the engine out for a clutch job, and i had the fan > housing off to claen everthing up since i had the engine out anyway. > everything in the fan housing was hooked up and moving. > during the cleaning i did clean out all the gunk from between the fins. i > even removed the cooler and flushed it with solvent, then blew it out with > air. > with the engine running i have got under the car and pulled on the rod, > and it does decrease air flow, but with it up it blows real strong, and > all the tins are in place. > could air-fuel ratio do this, i know a lean engine runs hotter? > thanks alot > matt > > I really doubt that it is a mixture problem. The temps are so far out of range that something more serious must be going on (I think). Is the engine tight? Can you turn it by hand (both when cold and when hot)? Jim |
engine temp.
i can turn it by hand both when hot and cold
when i had the engine out i re-painted the tins and the fan housing(just the outside of all parts) could this have adverse effects? and is there a way i can check the oil cooler? thanks again for all the help! matt |
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