71 super beetle brake problem
 

I have changed everything on this car. Master cylinder, metal lines,
rubber hoses, wheel cylinders and still have the same problem that I
started with the pedal goes to the floor if I pump quikly they will
get tight I can even move back alittle on the pedal and push forward
and it will hold but when I let it go and push again there is
nothing.I have bleed several bottles of fluid through the system.
what am I doing wrong? anyway I am ready to light fire to this thing.


Thanks
Adam

xeon19 wrote:
> I have changed everything on this car. Master cylinder, metal lines,
> rubber hoses, wheel cylinders and still have the same problem that I
> started with the pedal goes to the floor if I pump quikly they will
> get tight I can even move back alittle on the pedal and push forward
> and it will hold but when I let it go and push again there is
> nothing.I have bleed several bottles of fluid through the system.
> what am I doing wrong? anyway I am ready to light fire to this thing.
>
>
> Thanks
> Adam
>

How are you bleeding your brakes, through a piece of hose or just
opening and closing with the pedal down? I read about a guy with a ghia
that put his calipers on incorrectly (bleeder valve on bottom) and air
got trapped in his system. Spent hundreds on parts before realizing he
put the calipers on upside down. Sounds like there is air in the system
definitely, maybe someone with more knowledge on the group can give you
better insight.
-Kevin

"xeon19" > wrote in message
...
>
> I have changed everything on this car. Master cylinder, metal lines,
> rubber hoses, wheel cylinders and still have the same problem that I
> started with the pedal goes to the floor if I pump quikly they will
> get tight I can even move back alittle on the pedal and push forward
> and it will hold but when I let it go and push again there is
> nothing.I have bleed several bottles of fluid through the system.
> what am I doing wrong? anyway I am ready to light fire to this thing.
>
>

...............There's been a lot of talk over the years that many of the
replacement aftermarket master cylinders are defective. If you can rebuild
the original one or locate a new German one, it would be money well spent in
my opinion. Aircooled.Net might be able to provide you with a good one.

xeon19 wrote:
> I have changed everything on this car. Master cylinder, metal lines,
> rubber hoses, wheel cylinders and still have the same problem that I
> started with the pedal goes to the floor if I pump quikly they will
> get tight I can even move back alittle on the pedal and push forward
> and it will hold but when I let it go and push again there is
> nothing.I have bleed several bottles of fluid through the system.
> what am I doing wrong? anyway I am ready to light fire to this thing.
>
>
> Thanks
> Adam

Been there, done that!

I'll tell you what worked for me and hope it helps you.

Get some small clear tubing that with snugly fit on the bleeder screw,
about 3 feet worth. Fill your reservoir with fluid and go to the right
(passenger side) rear cylinder. Have some one pump the pedal about 6
times and hold it and then you crack open the bleeder screw. Have the
end of that hose you attached to the bleeder screw in the bottom of a
bottle with a little fluid in it. If you've used several bottles
already, use one of them. Do that wheel about 6 or 8 times and then
move to the other rear wheel but go re fill your reservoir first. Next
is the right front and finally the left front. Make sure you fill the
reservoir often or you'll be starting over.

I bleed mine for 2 days before I finally got really good pedal. I even
built a pressure bleeder and bleed them from the wheel cylinder back to
the reservoir but never got it as good as the old fashion way I and
others will describe. I'm told the key to this is in the tubing. As you
open the bleeder screw without the tubing in place, you are still
letting small amounts of air in at the wheel cylinder. The tubing keeps
that from happening. I bought a 10 foot roll of the stuff at Home Depot
back with the ice maker kits for refridgerators. The stuff I got is
real soft and says "do not use for icemakers" but thats where I found
it.

Keep after it, you'll get there. You can even re use the fluid you
catch from the bleeders if it looks clean. I've seen guys pour stuff
back in that looked like weak coffee and even though I didn't think it
was a good idea, they had solid brakes.

Good luck!
<><
TC

I am bleeding by just opening and closing with the pedal down. as far
as the master cylinder, I bought a german one thinking that was the
problem.

well I'm gona give it a try.

adam

xeon19 wrote:
> I have changed everything on this car. Master cylinder, metal lines,
> rubber hoses, wheel cylinders and still have the same problem that I
> started with the pedal goes to the floor if I pump quikly they will
> get tight I can even move back alittle on the pedal and push forward
> and it will hold but when I let it go and push again there is
> nothing.I have bleed several bottles of fluid through the system.
> what am I doing wrong? anyway I am ready to light fire to this thing.
>
>
> Thanks
> Adam
>
They worked when you got the car, right?

xeon19 wrote:
> well I'm gona give it a try.
>
> adam
>
I went through the same frustrating process. Turned out there's
very little room for error on VW brake shoe adjustment. Adjust
both adjusters, turn the wheel, readjust. Do this several times
to each wheel. I was convinced that there was a more serious
problem, but that's all it took..... good luck...

I've had the same problem before. I think part of it is bad rebuilt MCs,
part of it is the remote resevior (the fluid dosen't drain down properly).
I solved the problem on Annie by using a '65 Baracuda master cylinder. :-)
Of course, you have to fill it behind the tire, but that's not a problem
'cause there is lots of clearence with it raised so high.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

If guns cause crime, all of mine are defective.