Cars - air conditioner compressor

aarcuda69062 wrote:
> In article >,
> Olde Chrysler > wrote:
>
> > Refrigerant containing "dye" is for lamers. It causes more problems
> > than it solves, including hose and seal deterioration, gumming up of
> > Schraeder valves, plugged expansion valves and on and on. Don't use
> > "dye" refrigerant.
>
> Cite?
> Many OEMs install system dye at the factory.
>
> > Poop Boys sells and promotes that crap, I believe,
> > so they can sell more compressor swap jobs out in the shop.
>
> You're confusing dye with sealant and O-ring conditioner.
>
> > The only
> > way to do a good leak test is with a proper halide detector. Small
> > leaks may need application of dry nitrogen to boost system pressure to
> > find them.
>
> Actually, R-22 and pressurizing to 75psi or so with Nitrogen
> works quite well and is 100% acceptable with the EPA.
>
> > >This time I was
> > >going to put the dye in but I'm stuck because the compressor is not
> > >running. I'm pretty sure it's cause the low pressure switch is not
> > >allowing it to run. In my Haynes book it says that this is not uncommon
> > >and is easily taken care of by unplugging the low pressure wire plug
> > >and jumping the wires and the compressor will run continuously allowing
> > >me to fill with freon. The ONLY trouble with this whole thing is that
> > >they don't show me where and what this plug looks like. The last thing
> > >I want to do is start crossing wires and short something out.
> > > If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. <snip>
> >
> > First, you don't say what car/system this is, so I'll assume it to be
> > a Chrysler H-block layout. If so, the low cutout switch is on the
> > H-block itself, a rubber 2 conductor plug...NOT the evaporator
> > thermostat, which is downstream on the suction side.
> >
> > First, you obviously have a leaking system, and you're probably
> > already short of oil. Second, since the compressor's already cycling
> > due to vacuum on the suction side, there's a better than 50/50 chance
> > the system is contaminated with air and moisture, which is death to
> > any refrigeration system.
> >
> > Take the car to a licensed tech and do it right the first time. I've
> > seen dozens of compressor failures/contaminated systems from people
> > getting those infernal "cans" at Poop Boys or similar and a cheapie
> > charging hose. Since 134A doesn't have the same oil miscibility as
> > 12, oil level in the system in crucial to compressor survival. Second
> > in line is owners who add the wrong viscosity oil, or the wrong base
> > stock. Want to see a compressor fly apart? Just put some mineral
> > base stock refrigeration oil in a 134A system! If you do not have a
> > good vacuum pump that'll pull at least 100 torr, you can't do a good
> > job of purging/charging a system anyway.
>
> 100 torr? You're kidding right?
> 100 torr is a little less than 100,000 microns. If my vacuum
> pump was only capable of 100,000 microns, I'd toss it in the
> trash! A good vacuum pump is easily capable of <100 microns.

AAR: "OldeChrysler" is "DeserTBob"- he is a RICER that is posing as a
vintage car buff- that's why he's so far off on everything- his "air
bubbles in radiator/overheating problem" was in fact a friggin' STUCK
THERMOSTAT, that was stuck closed. He BS'd his way out of it saying
it was the water pump. He tore the entire top end off and pulled the
pan, when in fact it was a $10 part that takes 10 minutes to change at
best.

You make the call. Read the pro-ricer links in the other threads here,
that he posted on other sites.